You are way up there in the northeast. If your mango tree is in full sun all day, I feel that you should protect this little tree by mulching about 3-4 " thick and about 3 ft in diameter at the base of the tree. E-san is known for hot and dry weather, giving it some shade in the afternoon (1 - 3 pm) for couple more months is not a bad idea. Water it (if no rain) deeply once a week should be fine if your tree is mulched. Otherwise, you may need to water it more often. I don't think you tree looks sick. It probably is still adjusting to a new home and from being in the heat. General speaking, soil in the Northeast is not the best andt the heat is also harsh. Baby it a bit does not hurt. Check GardenWeb forums' main page. Go down to the bottom third, look for a Column labeled "By Name of Plant" and go down that column to Tropicals. That's where you want to post your tropical fruit/tree questions. Hopefully, you planted a sweet variety or the one that is eaten green and not sour. I don't think there is a name of the latter in English. Good luck

In the name of saving a few $29.99 3 gallon mango trees, I have already spent a small fortune in products that failed to produced results for this particular circumstance. I replaced the soil in the pots with pricey bagged blends mixed with compost just in case it was a soil borne decease. I have used at both the recommended dose and even at double the dose the following products and additives with no results: Both water soluble 20-20-20 with minors, and premium brand slow release fertilizers with minor elements. In addition I have added to the soil, Ironite in a chelated form, Milorganite, Magnesium Sulfate aka Epson Salts, and Azomite granulated broad spectrum re-mineralizer. I have also used minor elements in sprays (Souther AG Chelated Citrus nutritional spray), and SUPERthrive plant vitamins. I have also used the following fungicides in sprays or soil drenches or a combination thereof: Dithane M-45, Captan, CuPRO, Southern AG Neutral Copper Fungicide, Southern AG Liquid Copper Fungicide, Bonide Complete Fruit tree Spray, and Cleary 3336f systemic fungicide. Believe me when I say that nothing has worked so far. If you are determined on trying something, then by all means try something different then I already have and report your findings. You may want to refer to the fungicide mode of action table to make sure you are not using products blindly that do the exact same thing as the previous one applied. The article below teaches you about this. Here is a link that might be useful: Fungicide mode of action information

Daniel, you are lucky to have a wife who understands! My husband is happy too, as long as they're fruiting trees and he reaps the benefits : ) Wow, that's an impressive collection you have there. What type of avocado do you have? What about your papayas? I've always wanted a sweet yellow peach of some sort, but they won't grow my climate... funny how that works. Stan, thank you for bringing that video up. He's got some easy to follow tips. I'll definitely be keeping my mango at a manageable size. Writersblock, thanks for the link!!

Yes, sadly, I do think you have this disease. Your tree has all of the tell-tale signs of Citrus Greening and should be removed as soon as possible because infected trees are the source of further infection to healthy ones in your area. It is a responsibility of all citrus growers to other citrus growers to remove infected trees as soon as possible. In my opinion, the best plant/garden/agriculture resource available to Floridians is the University of Florida (UF) IFAS Extension EDIS (Electronic Data Information Source). It has over 4,000 publications. Here is a link: UF IFAS Extension - EDIS I have now lost three citrus trees in my backyard and two incredible ones in my mother's back yard. I have not replanted citrus after these losses as after 3-5 years, we repeat the process. I have great hope to replant one day! You can read the sad saga of many Florida citrus growers in these previous threads from this forum. :( Carol in Jacksonville