I would be looking for the responses to this question too - my mango tree has the same symptoms and the leaves are more twisted than yours. In my case, the tree arrived from the nursery looking like that and has stayed the same way for the past few months.

Its very difficult to diagnose this type of leaf issue from pictures. It is obviously some sort of burn. Some horticultural oil sprays can do this. Depending on type foliar feeding preparations used and temps when applied, that could also be in the running as a cause. If it isn't a foliar spray that is the culprit, then I would look to a brief drying out of the soil beyond what the plant prefered or perhaps a fertilizer salt build up issue at the roots. So, the next question is, "Do any of these possible diagnoses sound like they might apply?"

Harry

I haven't applied any oils or foliar feedings.
I have, however, made two applications of a slow release granular fertilizer, Vigoro Citrus and Avocado fertilizer, 12-5-8. Those two applications were made approx two months apart.
I also noticed the new foliage was being mistaken as a salad bar by some of the local insects, and I made one application of Ortho Ecosense Insecticidal Soap.
My hunch is that either I burned the tree with too much fertilizer, or the soap did some harm. But since the burned leaves are limited to just a few, I'm somewhat perplexed. Just trying to be proactive, and not let a small issue become bigger.
Thank you.

how far are you from the Ocean, looks like salt burn

granular fertilizers also leave behind salts in the soil.

other than compost i really dont use fertilizers on my mango trees, they push out new growth on their own

I don't know what caused your leaf burn but I do see another possible problem. Your newer leaves look like they are suffering from zinc deficiency.

mango kush, I am located in central Broward, about 11 or 12 miles from the coast. I wonder if some deep waterings will flush out any excess salts and/or fertilizer?

murahilin, I don't know anything about zinc deficiency in mango trees. Can you elaborate? What are the symptoms and treatments?
Thank you.

we get plenty of rain this time of year, i would only water it when its dry.

i wouldnt be too alarmed, nothing drastic. maybe a result of too much nitrogen pushing out new growth thats getting burned in full sun.

from the Fairchild link below

Do not burn a mango tree with fertilizer. We recommend that no nitrogen fertilizers be given to the young tree until fruiting begins. Nitrogen is the first of the three numbers that appear on the fertilizer label. You should use instead a potassium fertilizer. Potassium is the last of the three numbers on the label. We use a 0-0-50 formulation, sprinkled lightly below the drip-line of the canopy three times per year. Take care not to apply the fertilizer to the trunk. The ultimate in green care for your tree is to supply all your nitrogen in the form of an organic plant mulch or properly composted manure.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.fairchildgarden.org/livingcollections/tropicalfruitprogram/jackfruit/Growing-a-Mango-Tree/

Very timely - I purchased mango trees at Fairchild this year and was just wondering where to buy the potassium fertilizer they recommend. I have looked in my local big box stores and found only balanced fertilizers. Anybody know where to buy 0-0-50 (or a 0-0-some) fertilizer? What brand do you buy? If you don't use a potassium only fertilizer, what do you use instead?

mango kush, thank you for the link and info. Interesting and helpful.

Carbos, for what its worth, I use Vigoro Citrus and Avocado slow release fertilizer as well every two months on my inground mango trees and have never had any problems with fertilizer burn...as long as you apply it "lightly" about half of what they recommend. I've never had it burn my leaves before. Having said that I've had that same burn tips on my newer leaves when I applied "soap and neem" when I noticed some bugs on the new growths. Apparently it didn't dry before the sun nailed it and it burned the newer growths. Not saying that's what happened to yours...but that's what happened to mine, and its very similar to your pictures. Best of luck!

Marinfla...I used Fish emulsion on my Potted Mangoes and a couple of tablespoon of 'Dynamite' slow release scratched into the soil away from the trunk(closer to the outer rim of your pot). I got it from Home depot...safe for Potted plants...and doesn't burn the leaves. I used 1 tablespoon of fish emulsion (it stinks) so only use it for outside plants,lol...per gallon of water mix well. Apply it every 3 weeks during the growing season. Worked very well for me. I've used it for almost 4 years on my Potted mango and I've never had fertilizer burn on my leaves.

Carbos:

Where in Central Broward are you. I am in west Davie.

Lots of good advice above. I did want to add that whatever formulation of fertilizer you use, it is a good idea to make sure that "with minor elements" is on the package. Now that Murahilin called my attention to it, your leaves do demonstrate a minor element diciency. He says its Zinc. I am not clever or knowledgeable enough to know the difference in the leaf reaction to the lact of the particular nutrient, but if you get a general formulation with minor elements, you'll be fine. Mangoes are very, very resilient here on Central Broward soils. Good luck.

Harry

Carbos,

I have a few mango trees that have the same problem. The problem is called "Malformation". The fungus Fusarium subglutinans is the cause of this problem. Unfortunately there is no known cure for this problem. This pathogen is spread when the tree is grafted using infected tissue or nursery stock from a host tree that was infected by a mite.

I have seen many trees for sale in the nurseries with this disease. For a while I thought that it was caused by a mineral deficiency such a calcium and zinc. The giveaway that it is not a mineral deficiency is that the tip burns as a result of the fungus attacking it.

Read about this and other problems that affect the mango trees on the document below. The section that deals with this particular problem is listed under "Malformation".

Here is a link that might be useful: Some Common Diseases of Mango in Florida

Opps! The above link is incomplete. Use this one instead.

Here is a link that might be useful: Some Common Diseases of Mango in Florida

Carbos,
You can use a product such as "Keyplex" to correct your minor element deficiencies. It looks like zinc because of the coloring of the veins and the reduced leaf size but it could always be something else. Try correcting the minor element problems first to see if that will fix the problem and if not then it could be something else such as malformation.

Were your flowers normal or disfigured this year? If they were disfigured it could possibly be malformation and then you'd have to prune back each infected branch at least 18 inches or so and see if the that fixes it. Many nurseries are not sanitary and collect budwood from infected trees and spread the problem. If your tree was grafted with an infected piece of budwood there is no hope for your tree and youd have to cut the entire thing down and re plant. Hopefully that is not the case and if it is infected it is just one or two branches.

Harry, I am in Plantation. Regarding the possible minor elements deficiency, I have some Chelated Citrus Nutritional Spray, (from Southern Ag, purchased at Home Depot). It contains trace amounts of magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc, and sulphur. I haven't sprayed it yet. Part of me is wary about "over medicating" my tree. Perhaps I should treat it like it's one of my in-laws and ignore it?
Truthfully, I am confused as to what may be the issue, if anything. All I have done to this point is snip off the ends of the few affected branches. Overall, the tree looks fine and is having another growth spurt. Looking forward to some sweet, juicy Cogshall mangos next summer!

In the name of saving a few $29.99 3 gallon mango trees, I have already spent a small fortune in products that failed to produced results for this particular circumstance. I replaced the soil in the pots with pricey bagged blends mixed with compost just in case it was a soil borne decease. I have used at both the recommended dose and even at double the dose the following products and additives with no results:

Both water soluble 20-20-20 with minors, and premium brand slow release fertilizers with minor elements. In addition I have added to the soil, Ironite in a chelated form, Milorganite, Magnesium Sulfate aka Epson Salts, and Azomite granulated broad spectrum re-mineralizer. I have also used minor elements in sprays (Souther AG Chelated Citrus nutritional spray), and SUPERthrive plant vitamins.

I have also used the following fungicides in sprays or soil drenches or a combination thereof: Dithane M-45, Captan, CuPRO, Southern AG Neutral Copper Fungicide, Southern AG Liquid Copper Fungicide, Bonide Complete Fruit tree Spray, and Cleary 3336f systemic fungicide.

Believe me when I say that nothing has worked so far. If you are determined on trying something, then by all means try something different then I already have and report your findings. You may want to refer to the fungicide mode of action table to make sure you are not using products blindly that do the exact same thing as the previous one applied. The article below teaches you about this.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fungicide mode of action information

stay away from nitrogen loaded chemical fertilizers and it should be fine.

more limestone rich calcerous soils down here benefit greatly from minor elements like chelated iron and zinc,

if it were me i would probably lay off it until spring and then re-examine my fertilizer routine

By the way, has anyone in my area had a soil test done?
I'm wondering where to do so, and how helpful that might prove to be. Thank you.

Carbos:

I have done some inexpensive soil testing with kits purchased from Home Depot. They were not of very much value. The problem is that there can be wide variability between location in the same yard. So unless you take multiple reading all over the place the data obtained is only of limited value. Has fill been brought into your property to raise its level? For most properties, this is the case. Since I have just under 2 1/2 acres, most of the property is pristeen muck recovered years ago from the everglades. Only the raised portion where the house is built was raised with fill. How large is your property?

Enduser:

The only thing you missed was radiation as a possible treatment. You have defitiely covered the treatment spectrum. I had never heard of nor do I ever want to see the disease you are describing. Thanks for bringing it to our attention. I will be on the lookout for it.

Harry

Carbos,
UF does soil testing. Go to Broward's Extension Office in Davie and there you can get the box, bag, and instructions for your soil sample. An average size yard should only require 1 bag. When I did my soil sample the cost was less than $10.

Here is a link that might be useful: UF Soil Testing

First, a big thank you to all who have responded with their experiences and advice. Much appreciated.
As a follow up to this, I emailed Richard Campbell, who is the Senior Curator of Tropical Fruit at Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden, in Homestead, FL. His assessment:

"This is most likely a salt burn from the fertilization. We have not had much rain and fertilizer will burn badly when it is hot and dry.
Use 6% N only . Do not fertilize for at least 8 months".

So for now I think my best approach is to lay low with any feedings. I snipped off the ends last week of the few branches that were burned. I'm already seeing new branches budding from the cuts. I think all is well.
Mango sorbet, anyone??

Hi Everyone,
My mango tree bore about 25 small mangos for the first time.(the tree must be around 7 yrs. old) This yr started flowering (just a few ) and then dropped the flowers. My leaves have been eaten or bitten by something; even the new leaves which are still kind of purplish, they already are bitten. Also the leaves are burn, fallen off and with black spots. I leave in South Florida and it has been dry and hot this year. I put in some plant food back in January and again in March, I just sprayed with malathion (I was recommended to do that) What am I doing wrong? I love mangos and have not veen successful yet. Please help. Thanks.