Triclopyr is commonly used for control of woody plants, including poison ivy, as it works better than many other kinds of herbicides for that purpose. It is a selective herbicide unlike Roundup, which means it will not affect grasses. This can be a desirable trait depending on the site. Along with Roundup, it is one of the more common herbicides used to control non-native invasive plants during habitat restoration. There are two forms available, an ester form, and an amine form. The ester is much more likely to volatilize and move when applied during warm or hot conditions, and its use is typically reserved for colder times of year. The ester form does penetrate plant tissues more readily though. The amine form is a better choice in warmer conditions. The link more fully explains the material. Here is a link that might be useful: Nature Conservancy - triclopyr

@Groundskeeper I think you're missing the forest because of the trees. The point was that we apply much larger quantities of soluble nitrogen without really worrying about leaching than what I'm proposing as a foliar. As far as how much nitrogen I'm applying, I plan on applying about 8 pounds per thousand this year, 3 this spring and 5 in the fall. Some controlled release, some water soluble. No limits here in NC as far as I know. @Pennstater2005 Thanks. I'd like to step outside the realm of theory this time, give it a try and see what happens. I think there's no doubt the grass bladed will get badly burnt - and quickly - I just don't know if the plant will bounce back after a while.

Thank you for checking into that, Megatron. That Spectracide product I've talked about works so very well, especially at killing problem grasses in a grass lawn, it's a shame you can't use it. I do understand the issues, though. I use it sparingly and cautiously. Generally weed and feed products don't work either for feeding or weeding. A liquid weed and feed would be especially poor at feeding due to the low amounts of nitrogen dissolved in the liquid. Grass uses nitrogen in quantities of pounds per 1,000 square feet. Liquids can only supply fractions of an ounce per 1,000 square feet. Liquids can green up grass quickly but only for a short term. You'd have to use it every week or two to keep up with the nitrogen demands of grass. Not only that, but if you use a weed n feed in April you are too early for fertilizer, whereas if you use it in May you are too late for weed control. Timing is always off with weed and feed products. You are far better off to apply an herbicide in April and a fertilizer in May. Unless someone from CA chimes in, you're going to have to do the research yourself. Please feel free to ask us about the products if you are not 100% confident about them. I like spray type herbicide for two reasons: 1) you can spot spray the weeds and not have to waste product on the entire yard, and 2) you don't have to "contaminate" the entire yard with herbicide like you usually do with dry chemical herbicides in bags. The herbicides which are safe for St Augustine will definitely mention that on the label. It's kind of a big deal to be safe for St Aug. The 2,4-d types of herbicides will kill St Aug, so watch the labels carefully.

I couldn't read the article because I don't have a NYT account. Effectively though by continuing to spray herbicides it's a Darwinian thing survival of the fittest. There's always going to be a few plants that survive the chemical onslaught and then pass their genes along. With the amount of disturbed soils on the planet the plants we call weeds are taking over every nook and cranny.