The million dollar question: Have you or someone in the area been using Roundup? This is classic Roundup damage. Way back when, I asked a very respected rosarian from the Tropical Rose society what it was and what I could do about it. She had me think back on what I had done and sure enough I traced the damage back to an attempt to kill off grass in my rose beds. She said it would be terminal and was eventually correct. I HAVE made the same mistake since and have had an average 80% mortality. If the plant is well established it stands a better chance of survival. My advice: water thoroughly, do not fertilize, and do not cut back. The roses that I've had that survived took about a year to grow out of the funk but stayed alive via the tiny leaves.

After expanding your image, I can see that you have some nutrient issues which are indicated by the following: - interveinal yellowing on some of the lower leaves - and brown edges (possibly necrosis from too much salt) - Also stunted new growth is an indication as well, usually of a Calcium deficiency. Let me start by saying that even though I am using the work deficiency here that doesn't in any way mean your soil is lacking the nutrient, it may be, but more likely it is just a pH issue. Clay tends to have a higher pH that limits a plant's ability to take up the nutrients it needs, even when there is way plenty in the soil. In general, AZ doesn't get enough rain to wash the salts our of your soil, so you may also have a built up of sodium, which causes plant leaf tips to brown. You may need to neutralize the sodium (Calcium Nitrate has worked best for me here in Southern CA). The Calcium displaces the sodium in the soil and the nitrate adds to the plant's vegetation. But, you first need to determine what will fix the problem. Maybe simply acidifying the soil would be sufficient. Try this - mix 1 T per gallon of water and pour it in a small trench 6-8 " from the base of 1 (one) your plants. Why one? Because you just want to correctly identify the problem/solution before you go full bore. And trust me on this 1 Tablespoon of vinegar per gallon of water is sufficient, any more and you risk seriously burning your plants roots. Also, if you have several plants, then you can try some 1 Tablespoon of calcium nitrate per gallon of water on another. Write down what you do to which plant so you can keep track. Lastly, you may want to try 1 teaspoon of epson salt (Magnesium - sulfate) dissolved in a gallon of water. The magnesium should address the interveinal yellowing, and the sulfate will help lower the pH of your clay. Do that once a week for a month or two, sometimes it can take a while for the effect to kick in. However, the vinegar usually reacts relatively quickly. So, if that hasn't worked after a month it likely isn't the solution. Actually, over fertilizing in prior years could leave too much salts in the soils and result in stunted top growth as well, unless you are using all organic fertilizers. You could also try just running a lot of water over one of your plants. 6" of water will lower your soil salts by about 40% and 12" will lower them by 80%, so you can see why you might want to try that on one plant for starters (that's a lot of water). I use a 5 gal Home depot bucket with a 1/8" hole in the bottom - you want it to slowly saturate the ground around your plant. Usually three buckets full per plant on one day within about 6-10" of the plant is sufficient to lowers the salts substantially. ( 1T of vinegar per bucket will help lower the salts even more). Hope that helps.

Do you live in a large city? While a 2-week wait (or longer) for the soil to dry down is fairly common, commonality doesn't mean the plants that grow in it are going to show appreciation. Let's work on that point, and I have some other ideas that will allow you to make adjustments that might fix whatever is going on. That you can go long intervals between waterings w/o under-watering means there is an excess of water in the grow medium for at least a week after a thorough watering and perhaps longer. I know you've been at GW for awhile now, so you've probably read my tips on how to significantly reduce the amount of excess water your medium can hold. I'll outline them in case you're already familiar. * You can use items in the pot bottom as ballast to displace a large fraction of the grow medium that would otherwise be filled with excess water. * If the pot is of manageable size, moving it downward then sharply upward while holding the pot over the sink can remove ALL excess water from the pot. * You can tip the pot when done watering, which also removes a good measure of excess water. * You can use a wick through the side of the pot exactly where the sidewall meets the bottom (that's the best spot) or through the drain hole. Compare B to A to see what tipping your pots gains you; and compare E to A to see what a wick can do. Figure D is one way of using an item as ballast, but there are other set-ups. Sometimes, when the bark is too large, you'll get stratification where the peat migrates to the bottom of the soil column (causing it to remain wet for long periods) while all the bark is at the top of the soil column; but through the tell, it would seem you'd be picking up on that. Still, it's worth investigating when you repot. Wet soil and organic forms of N can combine to cause ammonium toxicity, and your fertilizer derives all of its N from urea. This is a very common issue but one seldom diagnosed. Your fertilizer doesn't contain Ca or Mg. Garden lime serves as not only a pH adjuster, but as a source of Ca and Mg as well. The magnesium fraction of garden lime is more than 125X more soluble in water than the calcium carbonate it contains, so it's not uncommon for a planting to need a Mg boost after a couple of years, especially when using a fertilizer that contains no Mg. I used to use and recommend MG 12-4-8 or MG 24-8-16 because I hadn't yet found Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. It has ALL nutrients essential to normal growth, and serves admirably as a complete single source nutrition package. I use it for all plants except tomato and hibiscus. For those, I still use it, but I increase the amount of K it contains for hibiscus and tomato by adding ProTeKt 0-0-3, which also contains silicon, which I have found makes a big difference in that it helps plants better tolerate heat/cold, too wet/too dry, insect herbivory and disease pathogens. You might want to try the Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. In the meanwhile, you can try adding a dose of Epsom salts with a solution strength equal to 1/4 level tsp/gal. I almost never recommend dosing with anything aimed at providing a single nutrient, but in this case there is so little probability of a negative result it seems reasonable. Finally, the damage is concentrated in areas of the leaf where the variegation is lightest. If these plants get much foll sun, it could be sunburn. The pigment, chlorophyll, actually protects the leaf's photosynthesizing apparatus from solar overload. Leaf tissues with little to no chlorophyll are much more sun-sensitive than their greener neighbors. Al

rosecanadian Both roundup damage and RRD produce the strange distorted growth on roses called witches broom. RRD has other symptoms as well which may include bright red new grow, new shoots larger than the stem they are growing on and more. You can look it up. RRD usually shows up on new growth on one branch first and it looks really bizarre, It spread from one branch to the next. Roundup damage appears fairly suddenly though it can be weeks after the spraying was done. It shows up on multiple branches at the same time and does not spread to new branches. It can take a year for a rose to recover from Roundup damage and sometimes they never are the same as before. As long as Czarinalex has never sprayed Roundup, never hired lawn care or garden care service or garden spray service, then is probably not Roundup damage. Roundup damage may also occur from spray drift from a neighbor if the yards are small or houses are close together. Czarinalex, it would be a good idea to contact your ag extension office to see if they want to confirm RRD. Then you would know for sure.