Britt, I agree with everything Jay said. Most of the time physiological leaf roll is merely a stress reaction, and the extreme heat is likely the cause. The last thing I'd do is repot them unless they're in small containers. Repotting would be stressful and the plants don't need more stress. Tomato plants generally do best if we leave them alone and let them grow and take care not to 'love them to death' with too much water and too much fertilizer. Having mentioned fertilizer, I'll add that it is much harder for plants to remain well-fed in this heat if they are in containers because the necessary watering leaches the fertilizers out of the soil. So if, by chance, your plants are in smalish containers that require a lot of watering, I'd take great care to ensure they are well-fed. I'd probably feed at least weekly in this heat, or maybe twice a week depending on the container size, but I'd cut the fertilizer strength in half so it is weaker to make up for the fact I was fertilizing more often. When you feed container plants with a water soluable fertilizer, their roots take up what they can and then the rest of the fertilizer often is washed out of the soil the next time you water. Shade may or may not help. If the temps are going over 105 or so, the shade doesn't help as much as you'd like because the poor plants are still so hot in the shade. If the plants are getting reflected sunlight and heat from pavement or building walls or a wooden fence, moving the containers so they are placed in a cooler area away from heat-reflecting surfaces can help. If your plants are in the ground, making sure they are well-mulched will help keep the soil cooler and that might help with the curling a little. I looked at the bare soil temperature map yesterday and it was showing a temperature of 111 degrees in my county at the time I looked at it. That is why mulching is so important--because the soil is so very hot right now and the roots are just baking in that hot soil. Honestly, though, in a summer like this, there's going to be a lot of leaf curl in the heat and that's nothing much you and the plants can do except tough it out. Sometimes leaf curl is a symptom of a disease or pest issue, but 99% of the time it is just stress. I'm so used to seeing leaf curl in hot summers that I rarely even notice the leaves are curled unless someone else notices it and mentions it to me. Then I shrug my shoulders and say something like "Oh, that's heat stress. It happens every year." Dawn

Bad news coming. Really nice pictures of herbicide (weed killer) damage. If you or someone else didn't use herbicide, possibly contaminated compost or manure. Similar damage on potato could occur with either scenario. RE the contaminated compost or mulch, see this from WSU: http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/soilmgmt/Clopyralid.htm If you think that might be possible, be certain to run the simple bio-assay described at the above site. Here is a link that might be useful: herbicide contaminated OM

I believe that there is a big misunderstanding here, as you are lumping tomato yellow leaf-curl begomovirus and tomato yellow leaf curl virus into the same thing. These are two different viruses. Ms. Pfaff is correct: there are no varieties available to home or commercial gardeners for Tomato Yellow Leaf-Curl Begomovirus (or to those of us that study pathology, Sarania). This is a disease that was first found in about 2002/2003 and is a 'newer' strain of the original Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus. It is a small problem for a large grower, but I highly doubt a home gardener would have it. As Ms. Pfaff mentioned, using resistant varieties for other diseases would keep plants healthy enough to combat Sarania if it should strike. What I think you guys are talking about in this thread and getting rather confused on is there good old Tomato Yellow Leaf-Curl Virus. This has been around since forever and any seed company that carries hybrid tomatoes has a tomato that will be resistant to it. The varieties listed above are good examples. The way that Tomato Yellow Leaf-Curl Virus morfed into Toamto Yellow Leaf-Curl Begomovirus is linked to insecticide resistance in the whitefly. The white fly acts as a vector to transmit the disease from plant to plant through it's sucking mouth parts. Initially, farmers treated their viruses by taking out the flies. As the flies built resistance, the virus transcribed into a more virulent form. Thus, it is now a begomovirus. I applaude Ms. Pfaff for being up on her information. GMO varieties for Bego-resistance have only been on the market for a couple years. Quentin, PhD in Plant Pathology and Tomato Breeder working on non-GMO Bego-resistant tomato varieties

linchat I think it must be a bacterial or fungal infection of some sort, and you can't treat it until you know what it is. South Florida humidity and insect paradise is a great breeding ground for tomato diseases! Contact your state or county extension agent and ask what kind of pictures you need to send so they can make at least a tentative ID of one or more possibilities. Also keep Bets's advice in mind. While I don't think underwatering would make leaves "mushy" or gummy but rather all dried out, make sure it has sufficient water. It doesn't look like the plant is ready to expire yet so it's good to think ahead. And one more thing. The containers. Are they black? The heat of the sun beating on black containers can cook your roots and kill your plants presto. If they were my plants, I'd transfer them to a container that's light-colored, that won't absorb the sun's heat. Or at the very least, shade the containers in some way.