There has been a lot of field work among organic and conventional farmers here in California on planting or managing beneficial habitats on field margins and even within fields as special strip planting. Lygus bugs (similar to aphids) tend to pour out of wildlands in spring time in the Central Valley and attack numerous kinds of crops. Here on the coast we have less pest pressure. At the farm we have field margins and islands within the farm planted to flowers and natives mostly known to support the kinds of predators and parasites of farm pests. We grow grains over winter to attract and hold the early waves of migrating ladybugs who as adults are attracted to the pollen and soon enough find aphids or other insect colonies into which the both feed and lay eggs.

Have you looked into adding any aeration? Aeration can pay big dividends in controlling algae, especially in an earthen bottom pond. There are also other things like dyes to help filter sunlight where your other aquatic plants are not. Our company helps a lot of people with large ponds control algae and w/out hazardous chemicals and one product talk to people about is GreenClean Pro as it is safe for all types of aquatic life. Combine that and some beneficial bacteria and you have a solid 1-2 punch for controlling the algae. As someone mentioned earlier, oxygen depletion can result if you kill too much algae too fast, however you also must realize if you kill algae and it is left to naturally decompose, it will simnly fuel another round of algae unless it is removed or broken down by bacteria. Here is a link that might be useful: Pond Algae Control

Gardengle48, Awesome, that is just what I want, to kill these soft bodied mealybugs without killing everything else. (well, except the ants, I want them to go away too). Just yesterday I purchased insecticidal soap from the nursery as well as diatomaceous earth. I was continuing my research on the diatomaceous earth but you are the very first to actually mention it. Thank you! Two nights ago I read a post called "get rid of ants for good", The recommendation was in short to make a mix of three-quarter teaspoon Borax with 10 tablespoons of maple syrup. The idea is that you want the ants to live long enough to bring the goodies back to the nest. This morning in one of my variously placed ant traps I am finally seeing the trail to point out where the ants are coming from. I followed the trails and actually found some holes that must be where the Queens live. I say Queens in plural because there are multiple colonies in my yard and neighborhood. I understand it is the ants that are spreading the mealybugs. I am probably calling all ants for all of my neighbors right now. They are lucky to have me :) This may seem a digression for some but I have been told ants are eating the mealybug honey dew, that spreads the mealybugs. Love this thread and am very grateful as I was unable to get help from the succulent group.

That, or if you drink any kind of juice or colas, or water, for that matter, you can just cut a collar from the plastic and put it around your small plants and protect them from cutworms that way, too. You may be thinking of of diotomaceous earth (DE) will work also. Just sprinkle around the plant. It is made up of very fine particles of a naturally occurring mineral derived from microscopic fossilized remains of marine diatoms. Wear a mask while you are pouring it on, because it does tend to infiltrate the atmosphere until it settles down. Make sure you buy the one that is for gardening and NOT swimming pools. Susan