Drew, I'm sorry, I did accidentally (subconsciously on purpose, probably) exaggerate, but the guide doesn't recommend spray after pruning. However, upon further reading, I've found that your information is correct and copper spray is widely recommended after pruning even though it isn't very affective- but enough so to be worth doing according to current Cornell and other guidelines. I stand corrected and thank you for bringing this to my attention. After reading all this material about cherry canker I am somewhat surprised that my careless timing of pruning has never led to any outbreaks of this infection over the last 25 years. Cherries are a minority species in orchards I manage and I am very busy doing non-pruning work in the first couple weeks after trees come out of dormancy. It would be expensive to come back to prune only cherries and peaches at many of the smaller orchards I manage. I recently started managing cherries with summer pruning anyway- but only to better manage fruiting wood. I will now pay more attention to weather forecasts before performing this kind of pruning. I will wait until I actually see some cherry canker somewhere before I start spraying after pruning. I have to keep customer expenses down. If you hadn't posted about it I wouldn't think about cherry canker much at all. Thanks again.

I have appreciated all of the information on this site about pruning my dormant fruit trees - thank you for all of the help. My question concerns the best time to prune the evergreen types - citrus mainly, macadamia, avocado (hateful thing!), carob. All of these are evergreen here in zone 23/24 and outside of avocado (does its own thing anyway), are in need of pruning. The macadamia is now in the process of blooming and does so about 3 times a year - a wonderful, non-troublesome tree, but in need of pruning now. The citrus also, have lemons that appear to be having lots of lemons, but leaves scarce. Perhaps in need of cutting back as the oranges do - lots of fruit and drop also. The satsuma mandarin sets fruit in winter - so now is out of fruit - would this be a good time to prune back. It is about 30 years old now. In summary, when would be best time/technique for pruning these non-dormant trees? Bejay

Hi, Sakura! I think you would come to love your trees even more if you would service them yourself. Pruning isn't difficult, and there is no precisely right method. Most important, you can become one with your trees and you needn't worry about causing permanent harm. Here are some basics: 1) You be the boss! Shape and size the tree the way you want. Don't be afraid to make cuts. 2) Start by removing any suckers, then 3) remove any dead or seriously diseased limbs, then 4) remove any branches that are too low, then 5) remove any hangers, then 6) remove watersprouts, then 7) remove any branches growing toward the center of the tree, then 8) remove any crossing branches--leaving the stronger or more important, then 9) remove any mummified fruit, then 10) top the tree if it's getting too tall to suit you. Shape it like a Christmas tree with no upper limbs shading lower limbs. Use limb spreaders to force 70-90 degree angles with the central leader. Stand back and throw your hat through the tree. If it won't sail through, cut some more to allow good air circulation and spray penetration to minimize the disease that so concerns you. Thin your fruit big time. Live life to its fullest. Perhaps Harvestman will weigh in with his thoughts!!! Good luck, Misterbaby.

This is a late comment, when air-layering bear in mind that sometimes it takes the air-layered plant over a year to form adequate roots, so the time that you start the process is really non-critical. The only exception being if you are in an area where the air-layer might freeze, or become excessively dry. But since you are in zone 10, you shouldn't have to worry about the freezing part, and if you keep the air-layer moist, (but not soaking wet), it should be successful. The only other thing to keep in mind is that some plants do not air-layer well. Plants with fleshy roots, (pawpaw for example)