You should water not to rinse out the burn, once the blades are burnt, they're burnt, but to encourage the lawn to grow. Hopefully your grass has enough carbohydrate reserves to regenerate the blades, and frequent watering will encourage growth. Of course you will probably loose some grass, but you want to make conditions as favorable as possible so whatever is still alive will continue to be alive.

It is time to adjust your watering. Set some cat food or tuna cans out in the yard and turn on the water. Time how long it takes to fill up the cans. That is your target time. For now cut that time in half and water twice a week. After two weeks then cut back to every 5 days for the full time. After two weeks of that back off to once every 7 days. When temps drop back into the 80s you can back off to watering every 10 days to 2 weeks. I'm concerned about what you said about fertilizer. Did you water the fertilizer in right away or wait until the next day? Waiting is a no-no for chemical fertilizers. The purpose of watering right away is to create a diluted solution which washes into the top of the soil. By waiting you allowed the dew to create a strong salty solution which sat right on top of the plants. Bermuda is tough but not that tough. Did the browning seem to get worse when you fertilized?

1. Having my neighborhood go up in flames 2. Having my neighborhood washed away in a flood 3. Having my neighborhood be swallowed up in the next quake, #1 No fires if you stay away from the hill's where there are lots of old dead tree's #2 Floods - Just stay away from those few areas #3 Will yea Earth Quakes are defiantly scary! Can't do much about that. I would recommend a one story ground level house. As you can see I have a two story Cape Cod style home. I'm always worried we will get shook off our foundation. Earthquake insurance it is too expensive with huge deductibles! Everything does grow good here though. Weather is nice most the year. LetÂs see sod laying tips. When I lay sod I straighten the sod edges and corners as I go and make sure no grass gets stuck between the sod edges. This will avoid dead grass and brown and yellow stripes between the sod pieces that can make fungus and just makes for a bad start. I spray the ground with water and put down a little fertilizer as I lay the sod. I always use my square so I get nice square edges when I cut sod. Sometimes I donÂt even till the ground. Sod will live on the patio if you water it. I do it all the time. DonÂt over water your new lawn. Get out there and lift up the sod and see how wet it is. If you over water your new lawn you will get chlorosis and fungus like I have now from too much rain. If I need to replace a small spot I use a plate or bucket for a stencil and cut out the bad piece. Then I use the plate or bucket to cut a new piece of sod from extra sod that I keep on the patio or garden. If you are going to put in French drains or remove and replace tree's itÂs better to do it first. I did it all backwards. I have a spot were an old tree and its roots were removed and it keeps sinking along with the trenches were I put the drains. If you put drains. It is good to attach your rain gutter down spouts to them. Also if you dig your ditch for your sprinklers try to keep the top soil separate from any clay soil that may be down lower and put the soil back in the whole the same way you took it out. The grass grows better on the top soil than the clay. ThatÂs about all I can think of for now other than I like Blue Grass because it self fills. But. If you have shade you will need to over seed now and then were it thins out. I left a link below to other garden pics. I like to grow fruit trees as well. I get all my info for the roses and fruit tree's here on GardenWeb. Take care Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Pics

Do you happen to live to the northeast of Springfield...sort of near that gigantic limestone quarry? I have a feeling that you could apply 1,000 pounds of sulfur per square inch from now on and never change your pH enough to make a difference. First you would have to dissolve all the limestone. Which means you'll have to adjust your expectations a little - but not much. When iron hits calcium at high pH numbers, the iron binds to the calcium and will not release to the plants. When the pH drops a little the iron is released and available to the grass. I'm an organic kind of guy so the first thing I look at is what the soil microbes can do for you. When they are well fed they can acidify the soil right at the root zone. That's where you need it. But when you get a gully washer of a rain storm, the excess water will wash that acidity out leaving you with something like what you have. We get that in Texas (limestone quarries everywhere). If you have something like we have then in the spring you will never know it was yellow. Something happens in the soil over the winter to release the iron. My belief is the microbes are busy acidifying the soil. It happens every year, so it's nothing I've done. One product we use down here to counteract the effect of the rain washing through is to apply green sand. Green sand is a complex assortment of minerals that has the consistency of sand and a dark olive drab color - hence the name. At a rate of 40 pounds per 1,000 square feet it will correct the soil and green up the grass. I would not use it at this time of year, because I'm certain your lawn will look great in April regardless of anything you try now. But keep that in the back of your mind. Your normal fertilizer schedule should be once in May, once in September, and once after the grass stops growing in the fall. Keep that in mind when talking to lawn maintenance companies. Weeding should be done on an individual basis. That means they spot spray the weeds and DO NOT apply a broadcast type of herbicide over the entire lawn. In addition to what the company applies, I would encourage you to apply at lease one dose of an organic fertilizer. On this and many other forums we use raw animal feed like soybean meal, corn meal, alfalfa pellets (rabbit sized), cottonseed meal, or whatever kind of ground up nut, bean, or seed you can find at your local feed store. The application rate is 15 - 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. What this does is feed the microbes living in your soil. If they are not happy, then you will not be happy with your lawn. Once a year is enough, but I use it exclusively about 5 times per year. You can do what you want with that. Most of the serious grass gurus in the forums are 90-100% organic with fertilizer. You said you did not over or under water. Since you were just establishing a new lawn I'll let that go. As the weather warms up in the spring, you should water approximately once in March and April. In May, as the temps get into the 70s go to once every 3 weeks. When the temps get into the 80s go to once every 2 weeks. When it's in the 90s all week, go to once per week. When you water apply a full inch all at one time. Set out some tuna or cat food cans and time how long it takes your sprinklers to fill all the cans. That is your watering time. Mine takes 8 hours but my neighbor's high flow system takes only 20 minutes. Your time likely will be between those extremes. That time will be how long you water EVERY time you water from now on. That's the secret to infrequent watering and infrequent watering is the secret to having very few weeds. DO NOT LET ANYONE TALK YOU INTO WATERING A LITTLE BIT EVERY DAY. Here's an incentive picture for you on that topic. The picture was taken in July. Most everyone waters once a day except one.