We don't have EAB here yet, but we do have what are called lilac/ash borers. We have Phaenops gentilis, Chrysophana placida and Agrilus cyanescens. Many non native trees do need help here, but you don't know specifically what to add without a soil test. Unfortunately, they are not free here, but the cost is nominal, maybe $25-30 depending on what you're testing for. I would take soil samples from areas where you haven't fertilized. I just don't see wasting money on additives until you know what's missing from your soil, or what nutrients you already have enough of. I would also be extremely careful with fertilizing right now as we are in severe drought status. If you feel like you need to fertilize before you have soil test results, maybe do half strength. Any problems you're seeing now are most likely drought related as we've had virtually no rain, horrific winds and weeks in the high 90 - 100+ degree temps. We have a 50% chance of rain this weekend, which would certainly help. We've had roughly 4.5" of precip. so far this year. Your soil ph is most likely in the 7 range, as mine is 7.9. I have a Patmore ash, fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Patmore' planted 4-5 years ago and I've not ever fertilized it. It's doing fine. Your ash looks good to me. The native tree choices here are limited which is why we bring in non-natives. FWIW I don't have 10 years experience, just 5, but have planted and killed enough trees that maybe I'm not a newbie anymore, lol. I'm still learning and will be for life. This is a tough place to learn the ropes, but you're doing great. I love your yard! Barb

Bill, if it's deciduous, I consider the branching pattern, color of the bark, and fall color. A brown, fully furnished to the ground, dead looking conifer has none of that. Nothing wrong with looking ordinary in the case of 'Taylor's Sunburst'. I'd liked one of them myself, even though at times it looks like it's on it's way out to the unknowing. Knowing that it doesn't, helps to make the owner appreciate the yellow color more than someone without that knowledge. I don't design my garden on the views of someone who doesn't garden. I try to look at the garden as a whole, and surely wouldn't want a plant, or plants, that would spoil that approach. In my world, just looking at each plant as an individual with no relation to it's surroundings, is like driving down the road just staring at the hood ornament. Like you said, to each his own. Mike...being as logical as I can.

You remove them. If they're adults which are walking around, you help them scoot into a small container, cap, then transport to new home. If they're youngsters you do the same but understand that they are soft bodied, thus more fragile. If they are in the pupal stage -- stuck to the leaf & not moving -- don't detach; instead move the pupa still attched to a small piece of leaf.

Absolutely!!!! The roots are healthy. Plant it somewhere and do the same with the others. If you plant them in an area where there could be slugs, do what I did this past year: in fall when you cut them back or they wilt, use a 10% ammonia or vinegar solution and pour it over all your hostas if you have others affected. It kills the slug eggs so they don’t emerge in spring. but to be most successful ,do the same thing as soon as pips start to emerge. You fill have a far less problem. My garden looked perfect until early July when I noted some getting munched. I did additional treatment to those and others that were hit bad last year. Good luck! debra