Probably an insect with an ovipositor has stabbed the tree to lay eggs in it, if so I'd think these would be expected to hatch into boring larvae - not a good thing. To find out what to do you have to get it nailed down just what happened.

We don't have EAB here yet, but we do have what are called lilac/ash borers. We have Phaenops gentilis, Chrysophana placida and Agrilus cyanescens. Many non native trees do need help here, but you don't know specifically what to add without a soil test. Unfortunately, they are not free here, but the cost is nominal, maybe $25-30 depending on what you're testing for. I would take soil samples from areas where you haven't fertilized. I just don't see wasting money on additives until you know what's missing from your soil, or what nutrients you already have enough of. I would also be extremely careful with fertilizing right now as we are in severe drought status. If you feel like you need to fertilize before you have soil test results, maybe do half strength. Any problems you're seeing now are most likely drought related as we've had virtually no rain, horrific winds and weeks in the high 90 - 100+ degree temps. We have a 50% chance of rain this weekend, which would certainly help. We've had roughly 4.5" of precip. so far this year. Your soil ph is most likely in the 7 range, as mine is 7.9. I have a Patmore ash, fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Patmore' planted 4-5 years ago and I've not ever fertilized it. It's doing fine. Your ash looks good to me. The native tree choices here are limited which is why we bring in non-natives. FWIW I don't have 10 years experience, just 5, but have planted and killed enough trees that maybe I'm not a newbie anymore, lol. I'm still learning and will be for life. This is a tough place to learn the ropes, but you're doing great. I love your yard! Barb

hey joy .. i was lazy.. didnt feel like checking the database .... from my hosta background... i have come to the conclusion that all white tissue ... or tissue that starts yellow and fades in the heat of summer to white ... is simply a negative to the plant ... this tissue in no way 'feeds' the plant ... due to lack of chlorophyll ... if we work on the theory that for the years of 'getting established' .. every leaf is a food making machine... well ... if you remove the green from the leaf/needle... it just takes that many more years for the plant to get 'established... instead of being 'fully established' after the second season ... i am convinced it can take 3 to 5 years on conifers that have white or yellow tissue that goes white .... its all an issue of the green mass of needles versus the white mass .... if the plant is a majority green.. it tends toward normal establishment... if it is highly yellow... then longer ... in my z5 .... the yellow/white tissue burns to a crisp in the heat of summer .... and whatever is left.. can burn to a crisp in winter.. winter sun and winter wind.. can desiccate the bee gee bees [technical term there .. lol] out of them .... both cesarini var and burkes red.. both lost all needles the second and third spring .... though golden ghost never did .... i would guess at this time... that perhaps the first year.. they were totally covered by snow cover.. and avoided the problem ... IT SEEMS ... that once they get a significant root mass .. to offset the extremes of summer and winter... they hold up much better ... whether dax's suggestion of disease is the 'cause' i might argue its the after-effect .... a weakened plant ... he might not see the disease in a year or two ... all conifers in pots die over the winter for me.. so i cant discuss that ....... but the exposure of the root mass above ground .. seems to suggest such to me ... when the plants lost all their needles in spring.. i thought i had lost the plants.. but this is where i learned.. its all in the buds .... if they remain hard and tan.. they remain viable.. and the plant can re-leaf ... well super coffee buzz started here.. i think i addressed my theory.. lol ... will have to re-read it all later and add anything else... is it close to your theory??? ken

You remove them. If they're adults which are walking around, you help them scoot into a small container, cap, then transport to new home. If they're youngsters you do the same but understand that they are soft bodied, thus more fragile. If they are in the pupal stage -- stuck to the leaf & not moving -- don't detach; instead move the pupa still attched to a small piece of leaf.