IF we get back to our normally hot, DRY summers, the rust outbreaks should subside. Right now, that seems like a really big "IF". I'm taking the opportunity to pass along those which rust really badly to people who do spray or who live where rust pressure isn't quite as bad. To spray or not is your personal choice. I can't/won't. I can't afford the expense right now. Even if I could, I don't think I would. What's going to happen once "synthetic insecticides" are outlawed for home garden use here as they already have been in much of Canada and Europe? This is one reason Pickering discontinued so many roses. We can use this as preparation for when that day arrives (as you know it will). My best reason is, there is very little I can spray I won't react to. My roses are in nearly constant breezes to winds and there is nothing I can do about it. It's the nature of the beast on a hill. They're in full, hot sun which can cause chemical burn from sprays. If you can spray and not become physically affected by it; if it fits your budget and you don't mind that expense for that purpose; if your conditions permit you to spray without further damage, and you don't mind it, spray them. Or, keep track of the worst offenders for when that day comes when we can't spray. Kim

Having lived there for so long and the issue appearing only recently, something has changed. Perhaps the seals of the garage door need replacment. if you can, monitor the temperature and humidity. Generally even an uninsulated, closed, attached garage will be several degrees warmer than outside air temperature. Therefore condensation is somewhat limited.

Hey thanks amystroller for the lesson about the horse! I did a bit of research and you are right about origin and purpose. A piece well worth saving. Covering rust DOES NOT stop it's progression. The first thing you should do is decide if head is ok as is and only base needs attention or if the whole piece needs restoration. Next remove everything covering rust on portion you want to refinish. Once rust is exposed, wire brush away as much debris and rust as you can (both sides of base plate). The base may very well be so thin and pitted it can't support head. If you think that's the case, a welder can cut it off and put on a replacement. If you want to do the best with what's there, follow directions on rust converter product. Some good converters are Corroseal Converter, POR-15 , Ospho and Jasco. Once treatment is complete, prime and/or paint as suggested on rust treatment container. NOW! We get to your question as how to fasten head to wall. Any adhesive capable of securing head will dissolve finish negating all the efforts above and allow rust to start over. I suggest securing head to fence with masonry anchors. If you are uncomfortable working with masonry anchors, here's an alternate. Secure head to a piece of treated wood with screws the use construction adhesive to secure wood to wall.

Q: "Is rust at the bottom of an oven dangerous?" A (per Copilot): Rust in the bottom of an oven is usually not dangerous by itself, but it can become a problem depending on how extensive it is and what caused it. Here’s a clear way to think about it: When rust in an oven is not a big deal Light surface rust—a thin, flaky layer on the metal floor or walls—is common in older ovens. It doesn’t release toxic fumes when heated. It won’t contaminate food unless pieces are literally flaking off into what you’re cooking. In other words, a little rust is more of a cosmetic or maintenance issue than a health hazard. When rust can become a problem Rust becomes concerning when it affects the oven’s structure or function: Deep pitting or holes in the metal → This can expose heating elements or insulation. Rust near electrical components → Could create a fire or short‑circuit risk. Flaking rust falling onto food → Not toxic, but definitely unpleasant and unsanitary. Rust caused by moisture leaks → Suggests a bigger issue (like a failing seal or spill that wasn’t fully cleaned). 🛠️ What you can do Here’s the practical, low‑effort approach: Clean the area with a mild abrasive (baking soda paste works well). Vacuum or wipe away loose flakes so they don’t end up in food. Check for structural damage—if the metal is still solid, you’re fine. Optional: Apply a high‑heat appliance paint to stop further corrosion. If the rust is extensive enough that the metal feels soft, warped, or perforated, that’s when it’s worth having the oven inspected or replaced.