Does anyone have recommendations for cheering up a crabapple tree ('malus' spring snow)? We've had one since spring 2004 and the leaves have always looked droopy (rather pathetic). In 2004 & 2005 the tree had white flowers. In 2006, due to a winter drought, it barely leafed and had no flowers. So far this year about 3/4 of the tree has leaves (the bare branches look like they will eventually sprout leaves). Any advice welcome! Thanks. LaurieDutch

without doing any research... i dont see how a internal systemic can help with an external fire blight ... it will also help.. if you specifically ID the EXACT problem ... if you have not done so already .... read all labels.. and use chemicals or cures.. according to the labels ... a good full service garden store.. will help greatly .. compared to bigboxstore ... remove all fallen.. infected leaves .... and prepare to spray at the appropriate time of year.. i have about 10 crabs ... only the mature 20 year old... previously existing tree is phased by whatever it is ... i was told fire blight .. but refuse to expose the kids to spraying ... especially on a crab .... if it werent shading my hosta.. i would be done with it.. and when the oak trees mature enough to cover the hosta.. this particular tree will be gone .... frankly .. its a losing battle ... IMHO .... ken

The brown spots on the stem & branches is a normal part of the plants physiology. Growth occurs in the cambial tissues and as the trunk/branches thicken, the cells farthest from the cambium die and take on the corky appearance and usually eventually split. The necrotic (dead) areas at the leaf tips are a sign the root system is unable to keep the distal (farthest from the roots) tissues hydrated, so they are dying. The most common cause is a combination of poor soil and a heavy hand on the watering can, but a high level of mineral salts in the soil solution from fertilizer salts and dissolved solids in tap water, as well as soil compaction are also common accomplices that work together to limit root function or cause poor root health. Natural senescence (aging) and light levels too low for the leaf to adjust to can also cause shedding, but usually chlorosis affects the entire leaf or most/all leaflets on a compound leaf if it is being shed. I'd allow the soil to dry down to a nearly dry state before watering, and flush the soil thoroughly the next time it needs water - to rid the soil of any accumulating salts that can significantly affect water uptake. Al

regardless of where you live.. didnt fall start last week??? and it was recently transplanted ... and its a largish plant ... its stressed ... and finally.. its a deciduous tree ... the stresses are making it shut down a bit early ... i am presuming this is a eastern redbud.. Cercis canadensis ....of which i am familiar... if not.. then my answer might change .... i only mean to point out that your use of a common name can lead to confusion .... so use of the latin name would make it specific .... one of the reasons trees are planted dormant ... is that you dont have leaves to worry about on deciduous trees .... or they are dormant on evergreen plants .... either way.. you usually just dont have to look at something like this.. and then worry ... anyway.. just water deeply and properly with near drying before repeating ..... and see what happens .... see link on watering ... since it deciduous.. there is no use spraying anything on leaves that are going to fall off this time of year ... imo ... ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub