Got curious about compost tea. This is the second time I checked. Early this summer time I spent 1 hour researching but was disappointed. Here's one link from United Kingdom on compost tea (unbiased, NOT sponsored by compost-tea industry): http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/gardeningadvice/11121288/Compost-tea-does-it-really-work.html " What did they find? In a glasshouse study on lavender and choisya, none of the compost teas had any effect on growth or on susceptibility to botrytis (grey mould) or spider mites. Sometimes plants treated with compost tea were taller, sometimes they were shorter, sometimes there was no difference. Sometimes plants treated with compost tea were of higher quality, but often they weren’t, and treated choisya plants at one nursery were significantly worse. In short, the effects of compost teas were “extremely inconsistent”. Other links from U.S.A: http://www.walterreeves.com/landscaping/compost-tea-does-it-work/ From University of New Hampshire: https://extension.unh.edu/articles/Does-compost-tea-really-work From University of Vermont: http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/composttea.html Excerpt from above link: " It’s not clear whether it’s necessary to aerate during compost tea production. Aeration can speed up the production time, but it may also add to equipment cost and complexity. There are claims that aeration helps kill off the organisms that can cause illness. Very few studies have compared aerated and non-aerated compost teas. Some recent research. A 2-year study by the Rodale Institute and Pennsylvania State University evaluated the use of aerated compost tea for disease suppression and crop stimulation in grapes, potatoes, and pumpkins. During year one, approximately 50% suppression of powdery mildew was observed in the compost tea treated grape plots. A slight reduction of gray mold, along with an INCREASE in the level of downy mildew, was observed in the compost tea treated plot during the first year at one of the vineyards. Compost tea failed to suppress powdery mildew on Howden pumpkins in year one, but reduced the number and size of pathogen colonies in year two. Compost tea did not reduce severity of late blight on Superior potatoes when disease was present in year two. " http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/composttea.html *** From Straw: FOR ROSES, just spraying with alkaline tap water alone is enough to suppress mildew, as testified by Roseseek (Kim Rupert) in CA and rosarian Dave Boyd in HMF. For mildew, just plain tap-water spray (alkaline pH over 8) is enough to contain mildew, as rosarian Dave Boyd in a dry climate (only 13" of moisture per year) testified in HMF: http://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=3.4748

treehugger101 -- Virtually all of my roses came as bands from Rogue Valley Roses, Long Ago Roses, Heirloom Roses, Angel Gardens, Burlington Roses, and the now defunct Vintage Gardens. A few came as gallon-size plants from Roses Unlimited and Rose Petals Nursery. First, I'd like to know where you're located -- I've figured out what works for me here as far as pushing growth in bands before planting, but this may not work for you. Also, recommending a nursery would be related to how far from it you live. When my first round of band roses came in 2013, they were potted-up in a mix of equal parts peat moss, Bovung dehydrated manure, and shredded hardwood mulch. Those tiny bands which went into 1-gal containers had 1/2 cup of Jobe's Organic Knock Out Rose Food added, while those which seemed more vigorous went into 2-gal containers with double the fertilizer. The containers were set out in April or May (depending on when they arrived) in full-sun and were kept amply watered by rain until about June, when I had to supplement with hose water. They were then planted out by August. This year, I changed my mix to 3 parts peat moss, 1 part Bovung, 1 part perlite, and 1 part vermiculite. I also switched to Garden-Tone fertilizer simply because I found big bags at a good price, and I added 1/2" of used coffee grounds as a top-layer. Most of the roses which came this year are Chinas, Teas, and Polyanthas, and they are growing VERY fast in this mix. Some were recently planted in the ground, but the rest will remain container plants and brought into the garage for Winter. This time of year I find myself giving those still in pots daily drinks from the hose. If you have bad luck with bands, another consideration is the types of roses you're buying. While many Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, and Grandifloras will do fine on their own roots, there are many others which don't. Generally, the roses I mentioned previously do just fine without the extra vigor from rootstock. For me and most of the roses I selected, the difference between a band and a gallon-sized plant is about six months of growth. So generally, bands I receive in April/May will be the same size by late Autumn as gallon-size plants upon arrival. The trade-off in price for me has to do with shipping -- bigger plants cost more to send. If I am planning a big order, I'd rather get bands. If I want just a few, I'll go for gallons -- especially if those roses aren't as vigorous, or need an extra bit of bulk to get through Winter, or if I want more immediate impact. But overall, I like getting bands. Since most do well for me, it's rather satisfying to see them grow so much. :-) ~Christopher

Rosecanadian, if you don't love Iceberg, I agree that she should go! There are so many other wonderful roses... And yes Desdemona is definitely one of them!  I keep my Iceberg in spite of her weak fragrance because of how resistant she's been to heat and wind, while still managing to bloom almost constantly. But that being said, if I found another small white that's just as tough but strongly scented, I might be tempted to replace her too!

Candace, Read up about R. multiflora and Rose Rosette Disease. It only takes one eriophyid mite to infect one multiflora and boom.