The method you describe is how I save many tropical plants sold as annuals. Take cuttings for winter, plant outside for summer. Repeat in the fall. Coleus is a classic example of this. Also works well for many house plants, especially the creeping, non-woody kinds. When they look ratty, it's usually easier to start a new pot of cuttings than try to repot/rehabilitate the roots. Tradescantia zebrina (WJ) is the classic example of this. Theoretical discussions can be interesting, but not necessarily helpful across all kinds of plants. What are you propagating?

I have some Cover Blubbers, but I got mold on a couple of them and it didn't come off. The company replaced them, which is awesome (I was just informing them, when I told them, not expecting anything from it except maybe tips for cleaning the mold), but I'm really careful about what I use them for now. They're fantastic, even given the limitations. The harder kinds might be less prone to having mold stick. My answer of what I do is the same for only a slice removed, though that might not have been clear--and it might not work for you, or how you want to store things, but just to be clear: I use plastic wrap, and put it right up against the flesh, which means, pushing into the wedge area that has been cut out. If it needs help staying in place, I'll wrap another piece over it, but I always leave half the melon free, especially a cantaloupe, so the rind can breathe. Works for me. :)

On the photo, to the right. If your plant has been in the same place for a long time, take your cutting(s) from the side that faces the window, also, take cuttings from the top of the plant (if it's large enough). Use a very sharp tool to take your cuttings - not a pair of scissors, and don't just break a piece off. Scissors, even sharp ones, crush stem tissue, which invites rot and failure. Your cutting should be long enough that it includes 3-4 nodes (where leaves are attached). Remove the leaves from the bottom 2 nodes by cutting through leaf petioles (stems) as close as possible to the leaf's attachment point w/o damaging the node. Stick the cutting (plant it) so 2 nodes are below the soil line and 1-2 nodes with leaf/leaves still attached are above the soil line. Place the pot in a bright spot but not in direct sun. Best place would be in open shade out of the wind. Keep the soil damp only. Soggy soils kill cuttings, and this is especially true if the bottom of the cutting is in a layer of saturated soil that often occupies the bottom of pots that contain a soil too water-retentive for good results. There is a distinct advantage when you root in a solid medium as opposed to rooting in water. I won't get into that unless there is some interest. Ivy can also be layered; but it comes so easily from cuttings (ivy has preformed root initials) that layering would be severe over-kill. Resist starting numerous cuttings in the same pot to ensure the planting looks "full". You can achieve the same results by sticking a single cutting and pinching regularly. Al

Well, so I think I was wrong and I didn’t need to re-cut. I pulled it out and re-cut and it seemed as though there was still live tissue in there. I will attach photos if I can. When I pulled it out, the end looked dry but when I cut a bit off, there was still green. So I put on more rooting powder and put it back in. Then I put the little stump in powder and stuck that too. I hope this works. Anyhow, maybe someone can learn from this. This is the dried end.