You can let them grow larger. If you want maximum size and flesh thickness wait til one starts to go to a dark red color like farmerdill's picture shows....you wanted to pick it a few days earlier, so gauge your future harvests off of that. In your variety, the tiny peppers are usually green when they first develop, soon change to purple, grow for several weeks as purple, and then ripen to a deep red/burgandy. If I recall correctly, they do not have solid purple flesh through and through but a purple surface and green underneath. Only after ripening to the dark red will the flesh lose the greenish color. Why only one color per plant? Each plant's genetics determine its fruit color. Some are advertised as multicolor because the fruit(peppers) go through dramatically different colors as they mature. Your pack is multicolor in that way, but the plants are also different varieties of peppers with genetics to produce a variety of fully mature colors as well as intermediate colors as they grow. It may be hard to decide just when to harvest, but all stages are safe to eat. I think waiting until they are well along but not quite to final color gives the best taste and good yield. Others may give up some yield to get the sweeter taste of fully mature peppers.....but you won't have any that are purple at that stage in your mix.

Writing from FL, in reference to foraging and harvesting our native cutleaf ground cherry (Phys. angulata). I often find that all of the above answers contribute to potential reasons. From any type of stress to less than ideal growing conditions to mechanical intervention like wind knocking off fruit. I’ve found that even perfectly healthy and immature fruit can fall off by brisking a hand a bit to swiftly against it, almost as easy as a ripe fruit falling off, while other fruits are held onto the plant with a deathgrip. I find it all to be rather a gample of chance, as another commenter mentioned, the seeds of green fruit are mature to germiante, and the plant itself is not producing fruit for Human or Animal convenience - perhaps there is an evolutionary strategy that has evolved to keep successional generations close to the parent plant by dropping green fruits and to spread generations around via animals eating ripened fruit. Who knows. I rarely find a ripe fruit in a brown husk on the ground, nearly never. I tend to shake the plant first, gather whatever had fallen, then feel each individual fruit through the husk, any fruits that fill their husk I will harvest, these fruits usually have a yellowing or lime green husk and pick off the branch with little effort, some might begin to look the very faintest of not 100% green but certainly not ripe at all. I let the harvest sit in a single layer in a woven tray on my car dash in the sun for a few days with the windows cracked if the weather permit. Some fruits never ripen, some just rot immediately, others ripen beautifully. The flavor is delicious and despite the low percentage of fruit that actually get to be eaten the effort is worth it for me. I’ve found in the past, to the original questioner, that trying to ripen your green Physalis inside results in what you experience, just green berries inside dry tan husks that stay green indefinitely, painstakingly long, until eventually rotting or shriveling. In terms of your plants, ensure they get full sun and try your hardest to prevent any distress to the plant at all. Try ripening your green berries in direct sunlight, and also, you can peel back to check for damage or disease inside. The sentiment of ”leaving the berry in the husk” really refers to keeping the berry attached at its stem to the husk, not leaving the husk intact and closed. Upon harvesting, I peel back every fruits husk individually to assess for insects and disease right there in forest before I even go home. But I do not rip the husk off, simply peeling each ”panel” of the husk from the tip up its seem to the adjoining panels wnd then leaving them joined at the top near the stem.

Hi, josette-sc 8 I would suspect that your office is brightly lit, and of stable conditions that promote its over all condition and growth. Further more some Christmas cactus and other cacti sold in stores are hybrids, and tend to be easier to grow then non-hybrids. Nearly all of my cacti are non-hybrids, and a few do pose a challange to me. To tell you the truth, I get a lot of questions about how I grow my plants, and most often about my cacti. I do relate that setting them outside may seam like a lot of work for most people, but the end result does show up in larger faster growth and more blooms for someone who lives this far north, in relation to that most cacti's southern origins. farmerted361:)

I am pretty new for fig grow, this year is my first yeat to harvest fig, I have one Petite Negra, 3rd year, got 4 small fig, slowly riped, at the same time, my chicargo hardy also the 3rd year, show up more fruits and riped quicker, My best fig is the one from North China, fengtai beijing fig, also, year 3rd from bareroot. The tree produced a lot of huge sized fruits, very juicy, start harvest every day starting the end of August. Still have a few to pick, I feel like the ripe depend on the temperature, one day hot like 80 degree, the fig size is boosted, I have to pick it otherwise, the bird got them. I am going to write down the ripe schedule next year for reference. Wendy