rthomp Raised beds do not retain water as well. The insulation idea is okay if you use a foil surfaced insulation(face out) but you need to go below the surface some and use insulation that is approved for below ground usage. Typically found being used for foundations ... It is waterproof but water can seep through the joints; a layer of 6mil plastic will reduce that a lot. One can reduce the costs and install time by skipping the insulation and just using the treated lumber with a covering on the inside of 6 mil plastic. Also needs to be below ground, some anyway(I know how hard the surface can be there ... ); get it down an inch or two somehow. For mulch, try using reflective mulch, esp. under/around the plants. It can be covered with regular mulch for appearance sakes. Heavy duty Al foil works but does not last long -might make it one season if it is covered. Aluminized poly-film lasts longer. Check at the local garden center(s) or failing that, online. The third thing is to install either a soaker or drip & mister watering system. If the plants are not very susceptible to mildew/mold problems, misters will keep'em cool although it can waste a lot of water. Phoenix, as you know, is a dry heat and misters are fairly common so it might be worth it to you. Misters are in addition to either soaker or drip. Drip is best for small numbers of plants as it can get out of control maintaining it for many. I use soaker hose buried(a must!) under the mulch and, where practical, under ~ 2" to 6" of dirt. It has worked great here. I do no misting but that is because of the area's weather(hot & humid) and waste of the resource. Be sure to water properly -too much is just as bad. hth...

I'm here in the Finger Lakes Region of NYS and am getting ready for my first HFGH (10x12)spring. Have an LP heater in and have just received my shipment of bubble wrap from Charley's. My plan was to put the bubble wrap up in a horizontal plane beginning at the left of the door frame and go all around the inside of the greenhouse to the right door frame. I have my shelving hanging off of the wall studs so I thought that this would be easier and neater. The other option is to put it up in the vertical plane. I have the hangers from Charley's, but for the life of me, I cannot make sense of the corner hangers for this bubble wrap. Any ideas, comments and/or pictures of bubble wrap installation would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Joe Here is a link that might be useful: My HFGH ready for spring

I did read the info in the link. Previously i read the air space was needed to reduce ice daming. I thought the space allowed drying and, well, venting from the soffits. I thought in the warmer monthes the space absobed the heat and allowed it to vent through the ridge venting i would be installing before it entered the home from above. I read also that no airspace was also an option but that the spacing method was the tried and true method. ie. the easier method to reduce icedamming I was thinking the foil back could help with heat reflection but that the main reason for it would be low permanence (level 1 barrier). I am sheathing the entire home in 2.8 inch foam right to the roof line so i was going to try my best for an air sealed structure. This only leaves my rafters and rat tails for thermal bridging. I real would like to not remove my roof to add foam. As you can tell, I am not a pro so all this info helps me alot. I am trying my best, i want my home to ge great for my family.

Thanks, i am in northern michigan, zone 4. We are building a 2300 square foot 1 1/2 story home. 2x6 wall construction, sheeted w/ osb, vapor barrier and the 3/4 inch foam on outside. It will be covered with vinyl siding and stone when it is finished. I am very concerned about my insulation because the ceilings are high and fuel prices are rising. We will be using an outdoor wood stove for the most part w/ propane furnace back up. I would love to do the spray foam insulation but we are building ourselves and paying for this build as we go and i am not sure that we will be able to swing that. My original post in the other forum was asking if i could: use the foam on the exterior, foam and caulk all cracks and sill plates, beam etc(not a builder...just the researcher in the family) in the framing, use blown in insulation in the walls and attic spaces///// i have read much on here regarding the r value necessary. and in the living room and bedroom that are cathedral ceiling, i was thinking about using the ....duravent, and stacked foam sheets that were sealed with spray foam... from a can to get a higher r value in the 2/10 area of the cathedral. am i on the right track or would i be better off w/ batts. do you have any idea where i can purchase that tape for the exterior joints in bulk or large quanities, it was like 11.00 for 50 feet, i have LOTS of 50 feet rolls to buy.. depressing.