Is this the Yates Spray you're using? http://www.yates.com.au/products/disease-control/concentrates/yates-rose-shield-insect-disease-spray/ If so, it says the fungicide is systemic, meaning it absorbs into the plant and incorporates into the sap to provide the protection for two weeks. Spraying more frequently than that can damage foliage and over expose you, your pets (if any) and anyone else coming in contact with the chemicals. If your roses continue mildewing after the systemics have reached their "sap levels", you have other issues at work. Water stressed plants can also experience diseases because of the stress. You can force them to mildew even when the conditions aren't proper for the disease by keeping them too dry. Not necessarily that you aren't watering enough, but the reflected, radiated heat from surrounding surfaces "cook" the water out of the plants. Perhaps the pots are over heating from the air temperature, direct sun shining on them or the radiated/reflected heat from walls or the patio floor? Growing other plants in the pots with them also increase the competition for water in those soil balls. The traditional conditions favoring mildew are cool and damp. If your roses are mildewing when it's either hot and humid or hot and dry (and nights aren't cool and damp), that sounds like water stress induced mildew to me. Are the roses mildewing worst closest to either direct sun exposure on their pots, or closest to the hottest walls where the sun shines most directly, for the longest period of the day? If they are, that also helps point the finger toward water stress induced mildew. Might these also have the ground cover growing vigorously in their pots? That ground cover is using water the rose seems to need to help prevent the mildew. Yes, some roses are much more susceptible to mildew than others. Your local rose garden center/nursery should be able to point you toward those varieties. You can also find out that kind of information about many roses on Help Me Find-Roses. You can make a list of what's available locally, then check Help Me Find to see if there are statements about their disease resistance on the site. But if you've used your systemic spray properly for several weeks or longer and these are still mildewing, the other possibilities I've offered could easily account for why the problem isn't clearing up. You may want to take a look at their placement on the balcony to see if by moving them around, you might alleviate some of the greater heat these might be experiencing. You may also want to consider removing the ground cover and any other companion plants from the pots of the roses which continue mildewing. You might also need to increase the size of the pots they grow in. If they're too small, the plant will consume all the water they can hold, or it might cook out too quickly, leaving the plant "thirsty", inducing it to mildew. Once thing is certain, I would not suggest using the Yates more frequently than the label instructs. You should have enough of it in the plant sap after several applications and a few weeks for it to begin working. It won't remove the mildew on older foliage which already show symptoms, but it should prevent the new foliage from mildewing as long as it is used properly. I hope it helps. Kim Here is a link that might be useful: Help Me Find - Roses

Well, Jeff, I feel very honored that you are willing to share your expertise with us on this forum. Especially with those of us who are so new at this and are poking our way around these plants trying to find what is best...quite often after we've already done things in not such a good way! I can just see these field collectors out there in the sun with their hats on, notepads and cameras in hand, on the lookout for cacti and succulents not yet catalogued! With the thousands of plants already documented, it is an amazing and daunting task to have been taken on. Gee, and all I have to do is pick up a book or go on the internet in my nice air-conditioned home to reap the benefits of their efforts. The world is a lot smaller place than I think at times.

1. What's growing nearby ; ) 2. Thunbergia Erecta 3. Thought it might be COG myself but the throat markings are wrong, i think. I'll say Allamanda Cathartica, probably 'Henderson'. Really more a vine than a shrub but can be pruned into a shrubby mound. 4. Allamanda Shotti-Smaller flowers, shrubbier habit. 5. Agree with John 6. Jatropha i think, euphorbiaceae family 7. Has this flowered? Do you have a picture? 8. Is it fragrant? Looks a little little like H. Arnottianus but the colors seem too vibrant and the leaves don't look right. Where'd you get it? If it came from a big box store in a 6" pot you might want to search the Monrovia or Proven Winners website for an id. 9. & 10. i don't know ixora myself but i'd be suprised if they can be idenified by flower color alone. Maybe someone else can help you out if you know what size the bushes grow to? 11.& 12. Psittacorum Heliconias-sometimes called Parrot Heliconia. The orange one is the common one. Lots of selected color forms, the yellow one could be 'Sassy' or 'Princess Di'. Horribly invasive. 13. Looks like a Stricta, maybe Dwarf Jamaican? Should have a dark red midrib if so. Not too aggressive, at least not in my garden where it gets to less than 2 feet tall and blooms pretty much year round. i've seen it get to 4' tall in some other locations.

HELLO JEFF I WILL DO MY BEST HERE, THE PIC IS NOT TOO GOOD OF THE FRUIT ITSELF, BUT IF I HAVE NOT MISSED MY GUESS IT COULD BE "CATARINA" IM GROWING SOME THIS YEAR AM I RIGHT?? THANKS YOUR FRIEND JOE