Seeing as how it is already mid-February, they're probably best off where they are until you can begin to move them outdoors during the day and slide them back inside if the nights get very cold (20 F. or lower.) Once a rose breaks dormancy, you're not going to get them to stop, only slow them down a little by keeping them cool. The reason I say this rather than encourage you to "bring them upstairs to some good light and start their spring a little early indoors" is that what is "good light" to you and good light to your roses are probably two very different things. Unless you have floor to ceiling glass with a favorable exposure you are going to have to supplement with artificial light, such as a florescent fixture just above the plants for 18 hours a day. And then in that dry indoor warmth there will be spider mites, aphids and other issues to contend with, believe me. Keeping a rose healthy indoors is not an easy task as many here can tell you from experience. Oh, we northern rose fanatics may dare to take on the challenge; yet seldom does it yield the results we hope for, but instead a lot more work than we bargained for!

Should I begin already to prune to encourage the eventual hedge shape? They will look best with a prune every year, but when young the lighter the better, until they get very well established root systems. Let them build up some strength first. The best hedges I have seen get pruned hard every year, down to about 18". This after they have settled in for two or three years. Then after every flush of bloom cut them back lightly but evenly for the hedge effect. You can use hedge trimmers if they produce a clean cut. Hard pruning I would not do to any other rose. 'Iceberg' seems to take it just fine, in Southern California. These get pruned to 12-18" every January:

Hi, Blossom, I'm in SW Wisconsin and I've had an Iceberg in a terraced bed by my front door for 7+ years. It does have blackspot problems, but it responds well to the severe pruning I give it nearly every year. In fact, that's about all I've done with it (I have 3 young special needs kids)and it manages just fine. It handles drought conditions fine and would probably do really fantastic if I actually gave it more attention. It's a good bloomer for me, despite the neglect it receives too. I haven't even gotten to the winter protection for the last 2 winters and it's still okay. It is in a protected spot though. This year, my garden focus is the roses, and first on the list is dealing with the blackspot running rampant, so the Iceberg should be great this summer. Hope this helps!

My daughter found clg Iceberg to be a slow starter - after 2 years it started to take off. She grows it on the standard curved arch you buy in Kmart. Placed it by a gate with a star jasmine on the other side. I think she got sick of seeing the bare arch and planted the jasmine to cover it! Now she may have to pull one out poor girl. If you planted a climber without knowing it was one you may have to transplant where you can train it up something. Others more expert than I will know how you do that without damaging the plant. If you want to leave it there perhaps you could put a trellis up behind it - have a look in Bunnings for ideas or ask someone there. Or go for help to a handyman neighbour or rellie. Tall roses are a problem in the garden aren't they, especially if they are thorny or have thick canes. I would love more info on how to train the blighters too after having had to hack at a few in my parent's garden. Mr Lincoln is one of the few HT's I love but I am put off growing it because of its growth habit. Perhaps someone could introduce a new thread on managing tall roses. Have noticed that DA's don't put on a lot of new growth too. You don't see many watershoots on them - at least the ones I have grown but they are easy to strike from cuttings so you could try for more than one of those lovely W S's .