I am always a little concerned when the word 'NEVER' pops up with relation to gardening because it is so decisive and definite and gardening is such a flexible activity. First off, plants don't read books or listen to growers instructions and they do as they want to do, given their growing conditions. Most forms of narcissus (daffodils) naturalize very well in areas that offer slightly shady conditions. Under the canopies of many deciduous trees is such a situation. From fall to leaf-out in midspring, these areas offer very bright, even sunny conditions that the bulbs prefer to produce foliage and flower. Direct sun after flowering will speed the photosynthetic process that re-energizes the bulb for the coming year but being in partial or dappled shade during this period will not stop the process. Photosynthesis still happens, otherwise there would be no plants that would grow in shady conditions. It just may take longer for the foliage to ripen and die off properly. There is clear evidence of this if you consider the naturalized plantings of narcissus in many English country gardens or estates, where the bulbs are planted along woodland verges or in orchards, etc. I myself have a cluster of naturalized daffs that have been in place for years that are now in nearly total shade under some very large evergreen shrubs. They never fail to appear and bloom each season, so somehow photosynthesis and bulb regeneration continues despite the fact they receive virtually no direct sunlight. As to moving bulbs, especially narcissus, it can be done at any time, even when in bloom. You don't have to wait until the foliage dies back and if planted correctly in the right conditions, they will rebloom in following seasons perfectly well. After bloom and before the foliage dies off entirely is one of the better times, actually - there is little chance of transplant disturbance to the flowering cycle and you are better able to dig and move without damaging the bulbs because you can determine exactly where underground they are based on the foliage presence. Once the foliage is gone, you risk digging into bulbs and slicing or otherwise damaging them. Just move the bulbs with foliage intact and allow it to mature naturally. Tulips are approached differently, as they are true sun lovers and tend not naturalize very well anyway, even under the best of conditions. But moving them now is fine also.

I wish I had the definitive answer but I can only give my best advice based on experience with plants of all kind, including potted citrus. First I would water the tree well for a couple of days with a soaker hose. While soaking the roots, dig the hole at the new home. Wait a day to give the tree roots enough time to pull up the water and so the soil is very damp but not soggy. As the CES agent who wrote a weekly gardening column in the Sunday paper used to say, dig a $10 hole for a $1 plant. Add any amendments to the excavated soil before planting. Next dig the tree with as much soil around it as possible. I think the minimum safe root ball will be 4-5 feet wide, 3 feet deep and bigger is better. It may take 3 or 4 people to pick it up. Wrap the roots, plastic is OK for just a couple of hours, if longer you need cloth fabric such as burlap. Plan on making a special trip to the new home with enough people to unload and plant immediately. Back fill the hole and water, water, water. You may want to use SuperThrive or a root stimulant right after planting. Good luck. Contact your Arizona ag school cooperative extension center in your county and ask their advice. The earlier you get it moved before HOT summer sets in, the better your chances of survival,

parker25mv: but Euro pears, Medlars, Quince (and I think Hawthorne and Shipova and surprisingly Loquats) are all kinda related, right? Like many nurseries graft certain quince-compatible euro pears to quince for its dwarfing capabilities (but maybe not vice-versa): here is that list of compatible E. pears: http://www.ars.usda.gov/SP2UserFiles/Place/20721500/catalogs/pyrcompatible.html Also I did read here medlars can be grafted onto hawthorne, and some other possibilities: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1466534/quince-medlar-shipova-grafting Here is some good info too on medlars/loquats possibly being compatible: http://www.cloudforest.com/cafe/forum/66194.html Also sometimes you can graft an apple interstem like Winter Banana but i forget on what rootstock that works out (think those special apples are allowed onto pear rootstock but not sure about quince/etc).... Anyway, the Medlar and Euro grafts I did pretty much all took. Will let you all know how they do next year on gardenweb.

https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub water is an art.. not a science.. water properly at planting ... and insert finger.. and dont water again .. until its near drying .... then water deeply again ... you will eventually develop a rough schedule ... but no one has your soil ... so no one can tell you otherwise ... there is no such thing as thin soil ... i dont know what that means... but sand is one of the best soils for trees .. is it possible to shade it for a year??? ... coniferdave rigs up shade for some plants ... you dont really say how big it is ... so i dont know if that is feasible ... all trees and conifers... etc.. are best planted small ... they can grow to acclimate to all the inherent conditions ... i suspect.. that your inability to water.. was a bigger problem.. than the wind ... ken