Thanks bogman for the info, I am going to use 1953. I was 12 then and my last year of Little League. Remember my Dad saying that this was the first rotary mower. I just now have to decide what asking price when I sell it. I guess I can claim to being the oldest guy on here unless saxman1 lets us know how old he is. Thanks a lot for everybodies help.

reply by theodocus struck me as coming from the desk of the ad agency of MTD. No mention of the actual operation that involves rolling over uneven terrain and jarring action from bumps and uneven spots and the fragile fabricated axles that bend and crack easily. Oh, there is also the bushings used in place of ball bearings: bushing use requires higher horsepower to move the newer units. The Deere has points and condenser; cost $5.00 and 9.00 respectively and the sears is a solid state igntion. Newer technology is wonderful as long as it is coupled with quality assemblage in a product. I have a 1968 Sears GARDEN tractor with a 12HP Tecumseh Heavy duty cast iron engine with ball bearings and cut with a 42 inch deck and also have a 1976 John Deere GARDEN tractor with a cast iron 10 HP engine with ball bearings and cut with a 42" deck and use both alternately for mowing two acres and for tilling and moving earth, etc.. Each has cast iron axles and mutli-speed hi-lo transmissions and EACH is used for plowing, snowblowing, tilling earth, hauling 1100 lb loads in attached large carts. EACH will run circles around the new 20 plus HP light LAWN tractors made today. Spend 5,000.00 and you will have a comparable heavy duty GARDEN tractor. By the way, good luck on getting even 10 years of use with the new wonders.

Hey everyone. I'm looking for some advice as a first time homeowner who moved into a house with a neglected front lawn. Pictures below. I applied weed killer 2 weeks ago and it killed the mass of dandelions but there still seems to be alot more then grass growing. I have CIL golfgreen one step lawn makeover and schultz lawn fertilizer I can use but am hesitant applying either with whats growing in there. Any advice on making this mess a nice lawn again?

Here in northern Utah there has become a push to get people to remove some existing lawn and replace it with hardscape and more planting areas that include shrubs and perennials that are good drought tolerant choices for this area. We do not get a lot of rain and the population is steadily increasing. Water is becoming more expensive all the time and yet there are still people who insist on having the big green lawn and then complain that their water bill is huge in the summer. We have to irrigate whatever is planted or most likely it will not survive here in the hot summer. Localscapes.com showcases an idea that includes having lawn only in a central open space to be used for recreation by people and pets and then landscaping the yard to include lots of seating areas, patios, trampoline areas and planting beds that are mulched with drip irrigation to save water. The idea is that lawn should not be the default groundcover. I have noticed over the past few years that more people are trying to incorporate more of these ideas into their own yards, such as flipping the strip and removing grass in the side yard. Some new homes are being landscaped using this method which is great! I have been slowly making changes every year and plan on doing more this year. I think eventually most people will be forced into making some changes or will just have to have a brown lawn in the summer since the water rates keep going up. The state of Utah implemented a tiered water rate change to try and keep people from using too much water but of course those who don't mind paying $$$ every month will continue to have their big green lawns.