Fledgeling, I wonder if they fertilized with chemical fertilizers or natural ones, like manures and/or compost? I know that chemical fertilizers can kill many (if not all) of the beneficial organisms in the soil, but manures and compost seem to increase them. I know for sure that they increase the numbers and size of earthworms. I even find lots of big earthworms in the pots I grow my seedlings in until they reach deer "untrampable" size - they must crawl up into the pots through the drainage holes. I don't use any chemical fertilizers on anything any more, just mix a little chicken manure or composted cow manure into the soil - it's worked very well for me. Since earthworms travel, they probably help aereate and fertilize the soil for pretty good distances away from where you put the manures/composts. It could very well be that rich soils enable big plants, like trees and shrubs, to grow fast and shade out smaller plants, decreasing the diversity/types of plants that grow there. I've read that some of the worst soils in the world are in the South American rain forests - if not for leaf litter, the huge diversity of plant life there couldn't thrive. Sherry

If you have a large, invasive tree...the lowest effort way to kill it is to pry the bark off in a complete circle around the base of the trunk to girdle it ASAP. Here's how to do it on Glossy Privet, but the basic technique can be applied on any tree. And a shovel will work too to pry the bark off. The reason why it works is that it prevents the photosynthesized sugars from going down to feed the roots...which then slowly starves the tree. This works on various types of trees. I've tried it myself successfully on Glossy Privet and Chinaberry already. Typically, the existing branches will stop leafing out and it will resprout from below the girdle over the next half year. Obviously, break any of those resprouts off, and keep starving the roots. And then watch the tree continue to die off after that. The great thing about this method is that it requires no toxic herbicides and little manual labor, too. Now once the tree dies for good, you can just let it rot in place for a while before cutting it down in parts at your convenience to prevent falling hazards. Of course, if the tree is a sapling or smaller and can simply be uprooted, then that's even easier and faster. And if it's multi-trunked and srhrubby, then girdling gets a lot harder. But for large, single-trunked trees...IMO, this method is the best option.

Thanks for the responses. Ken - Do you think I should peel off the bark that easily comes off (is this what you mean by cleaning it up)? What should I look for to see if there is any healing? Thanks for the notes about going for a smaller tree. I had heard that advice before, but of course, I wanted a bigger tree "now". And now I probably have an expensive mistake, it would seem. If I do replace, I'll definitely go for something smaller. I had been good about keeping the bermuda off of it, until the last month or so. With the intense heat we've had, I haven't been as good at keeping the bermuda out of flowerbeds and the trees as usually am. I watered it once a week for most of that first summer after we planted it, and into the fall. I set the hose at a trickle and let it soak for an hour or so. Because of the heat and lack of rain this summer, I've been doing that slow soak a couple times a month. Regarding the planting, I think it was done decently well. The top of the rootball is actually a little above the rest of the lawn, around 3-4". It's hard to see that from these pics. In the first few pics, you can see some bare soil where I had quickly used the weedeater at the base of the planting, where it raises up from the lawn. Thanks again for the advice!

Oak can be considered a weed species, if unwanted trees grow in your garden. And yes prolific seeding Ash can be definition of weed species. But know Ash does this, because its a "Pioneering" species. And also an ecosystems most influential Keystone species keeping, other invasive species in check. While securing ground so pre-settlement species like Oak can come back someday! Ash Pre 1950 before popular cultivars like Marshal seedless were sold by nurseries, Green Ash was even more iconic than Sycamore for its production of one strong apical dominant leader. These "Plant and grow above your roof" Green Ash can still be found today with ages of 60 and older. In fact, its a good way of estimating a trees age, and can determine if ones ash is younger or older than 60. So presently all the Green ash with one Roman column sized trunks, are those pre 1950 grown examples. A few owners who lost their old wild ash trees to EAB, but are keeping a seedling or two growing. Are shocked how their young trees require no structural pruning because they continue to be so apical dominant. One big difference between Green and White Ash, is how growth on end of limbs on Green Ash, curve upward. And growth habit of White Ash results in all limbs and branches pointing straight upward. White Ash, Sugar Maple, and American Elm, are powerhouse species that can handle growth of multiple limbs extending outward from one lower spot on trunk. Compared to say Callery pear trees, which fall apart with this growth habit. Those three hardwoods with this common trait, can continue to have conglomerate of multiple leaders stay well attached without self destructing. Horticulturally this is because they can handle included bark attachments, actually strengthening overtime by developing into one whole common mass of wood. As a Dendrologist observing thousands of felled trees, one cannot tell from outside that many times one single trunk had been made up from two or more trunks on Green Ash. And when compared to other species that produce twin trunks beginning low to ground, such as Silver Maple. Green Ash can easily become multitrunked tree, producing strongest attachments without fatal problem of included bark. For example, look at a Silver maple diverging into two large trunks, from a sideways view. And you will see pinching bulge extending outward. Yet on Ash with same structure, there is no pinch bulge. Because where two trunks converge, is all same wood without included bark in middle. Know that even Oaks can develop multiple leaders, when grown out in open. And when one finds an older multileader tree growing in middle of forest with all younger single leader trees surrounding it. These examples are called "Wolf" trees, which began growing after settlers cleared local forest during 1800's. Then new forest was later allowed to reclaim old riparian farmland, usually around 1900's. Its great that you all notice different unique growth habits between Green and White Ash. Even cooler is fact that there can be huge differences between wild species evolving from unique local conditions. So traits I point out, may not be true for Ash growing in your local area. One great example, is the wild variety of Biltmore White Ash from Ashville North Carolina which FL Olmsted had discovered. Which has pubescent fuzz on back of leaves, like Red Ash. At same time Scientists consider Red ash, just a variety of Green Ash. Another example is Junginger Autumn Purple White Ash variety a scientist found in Wisconsin local woods. And all those urban ones you see today, are clones that cannot seed. And before clearing of American forest which extended unbroken from East coast to Mississippi river. Tree hunters regularly discovered unique one of a kind examples they would officially characterize and list traits of. Then propagate new trees from cuttings for planting elsewhere.