Any time you remove an apical meristem (tip of branch or stem where elongation occurs), it forces branching proximal to the pruning cut, which means you get more leaves (on the new branches). All nutrients plants normally get from the soil are equally essential to normal growth. Even the least used nutrients can cause growth abnormalities or stalled growth. Remember, growth is a measure of the increase in a plant's mass, so a plant that is extending might not actually be growing. The little ditty about what the plant is supposed to do with the N, P, and K it takes up (up, down, all around) as a way to remember that N is for the top of the plant (foliage), P is for the roots and blooms, and K is supposed to benefit the plant's general well being is misleading and inaccurate. The plant needs P and K for foliage growth as much as it needs N. It needs N for roots and blooms as much as it needs P, and it needs all the other nutrients for its general well being as much as it needs K. There is a distinct advantage in supplying nutrients at the ratio closest to that at which the plant uses them. A fertilizer's RATIO is different than its NPK %s. EG, 24-8-16, 12-4-8, and 9-3-6 are all 3:1:2 ratios, and supply nutrients in very close to the ratio at which plants actually use them. I use a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer for everything I grow, and it works very well. I like Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 because it has ALL the essential nutrients, in the right ratio, in soluble form so nutrients are immediately available, and it derives most of it's N from nitrate sources, instead of from urea, and that fact helps to keep plants compact & from getting leggy in low light conditions. It also contains Ca and Mg - two nutrients most soluble fertilizers don't include. Al

You can either decide to direct the "aerial" roots down into the pot, let them grow wherever they want, or cut them off. In their native rainforest of Yucatan, the aerial roots help anchor them into surrounding plants/trees and help them climb into the forest canopy. Believe it or not, even the common philodendron (cousin to the monstera) does this. I had one in a north facing window and the vines formed aerial roots and started to attach themselves to the wall (like ivy) and start climbing the walls. I let them do this for a while because I found it so interesting and was pleased the plant loved its location. (Also made me aware of a moisture problem with the wall to begin with). Moral of the story is that you may want to provide some sort of supportive structure for the weight of the vines.--They can grow to massive proportions given the right conditions. I'll leave it up to your ingenuity to design a support. As a general rule of thumb, I do not like to translant anything into a pot larger than 1.5 times the existing size. If that sunroom of yours gets chilly in the winter(below 60 F), watch your watering. I have kept tropicals in an unheated sunroom that would be in the 55-65 degree range in the winter but you have to reduce watering if it gets that chilly (monsteras are really pretty drought tolerant). PS. Did you know that the mature Monstera produces a tasty fruit in the tropics. Good luck!

Here's a new roller emerging, it's wedged in there really tight! Sometimes I tease them of some EE, I just can't resist, sometimes I rip one a bit, the damage isn't even remotely similar! I realize this looks alot different than the philo in question, but the scaring along the edge, although smooth on my EE and very toothed and jagged on the philo, looks very similar, to me atleast. I'd like to understand it better, there's ALOT of variables, but I notice it most when it's hot and I'm fertilizing ALOT, so the plants are growing extremely fast. I'd also to very respectfully disagree with rhizo_1, one of the joys I get from gardening is learning about my plants, and attempting to understand them, we all garden for different reasons and in different ways. It's also not very attractive, if something's messing up my plant I want to fix it! I do think you could be onto something, I'm referring to the use of growth regulators or other chems in a large scale greenhouse operation, that, or the fact that it's growing conditions have changed dramatically over the past weeks or months, could have a dramatic affect on a plant! Aroids also react differently to many chems that could be used in the setting they were in. Time for more experimentation!

First off ditch the Miracle Grow. It's like feeding a diabetic candy. Use a more balanced fertilizer. Better yet don't feed at all right now, let your plant have a rest. I would give the soil a good flush to get the excess salts out of the soil. It does not need to be fed during the winter. I would say you're over watering. Look at my thread on keeping plants healthy through winter. It might help.