Maybe 12 years ago, I wrote the article linked below. The 3. at the end is a foornote to the 3 after susceptibility. George Mander "has made arrangements with a wholesale rosegrower, Jan Verschuren, to graft his budwood on R. canina. Jan prefers R. canina currently. R. canina is what was used there before WW2. The original canina was notorious for suckering. There are new canina selections since then. R. canina cv. "Inermis" is the most widely used variety. Much less suckering takes place, but it still suckers. R. canina cv."Heinsohn's Rekord" is regarded as the very best for Hybrid Teas (Jan agrees out of experience). R. corymbifera cv. "Laxa" or R. dumetorum cv. "Laxa" is more and more being grown on Europe's mainland. It was always used as a rootstock for Great Britain only. Because it suckers little and is, therefore, a cheaper way of growing roses, the mainland now also grows more and more on Laxa. However, Laxa is not as winterhardy as R. canina. For treeroses, R. canina cv. "Pfander" is the best one (his family has a well established R. canina cv."Pfander" weeping treerose of The Fairy in their garden at home surviving at some -24 degrees C unprotected, its budunion up in the air). Cheap fast production for big box stores has opened a market for multiflora cutting rootstocks for treeroses in Holland, but they have little winterhardiness. He also points out that R. multiflora is softer and the grafts a little more likely to be weak during the first year (Brad had one of George's Canadian White Star break right at the bud union; it can happen in a strong wind). Multiflora is much faster in production, but has a shorter lifespan than canina. Brad's experience is roses grafted on R. canina suckered freely and didn't produce as many basal shoots as R. multiflora or own-root roses. However, Jan points out that multiflora was shipped to Sweden because they had guaranteed snow cover in their winters. All other parts never wanted multiflora because of its frost susceptibility 3. Obviously, there is great debate going on here concerning the relative merits of various rootstocks." "3. This has always been a hot topic for Jan. Another former local grower here lost his crop on multiflora when temperatures went down to minus 24 degrees C. "I should have put more straw on" was his thinking... Jan hills up his budunions in fall and sleeps easy, even with minus 24. In his opinion, multiflora is never as winterhardy as R. canina selections are. As his father mentioned when he said to him that all growers use multiflora in Canada. " What?! Are they backward there?" The name Verschuren is closely related to rosegrowing in Holland. They are rootstock specialists. They produce seed, stratify and produce rootstock (about 6,000,000/ yr); and are only a medium size rootstock grower! Combined with Germany and the huge rosegrowers, competition is immense. Out of the competition, the best emerges because of the scale in which things are done there. The scales are different in Canada: here, rose production is done on a hobbyfarm basis. Multiflora is easy to grow; that is why it is used here; that is Jan's conclusion. When he met Otto Palleck, the just retired Ontario rosegrower, Palleck said, "What? You grow on canina? That is the best rootstock there is, but we cannot get No.1 quality here...." That was most likely not his only problem, as seed germination with canina requires 2 years of stratifying. Brian Minter told Jan initially when he started out doubtfully here with canina rootstock, "Do the best you can and grow the best product possible, and you will succeed" Now, Jan has customers who are coming back raving to buy more. His treeroses did not blink their eyes at the cold last winter." Here is a link that might be useful: A Visit with B.C. Rosemen

Right now it's mostly done to give commercial growers more crops sooner resulting in more income. If you can get three crops in six years from a plot of land as against two crops, which would you prefer? Another reason for grafting (budding) is you get more bushes from a cane from budding that you'd get from the same cane from cuttings. At the base of each leaf is a small bud. Each bud can be a new rose bush when budded onto a root stock. A healthy cane containing 12 leaves (a leaf is composed of 3 to 7 or more leaflets) can produce 12 rose bushes while the cane, divided into cuttings will produce three if all take. A cutting takes three years to produce a bush the size of a two year old grafted plant. The easily rooted rootstock cuttings are placed in the field as soon as a mature crop of rosebushes is harvested in the fall/early winter. By spring these are rooted and the buds harvested from the canes of mother bushes are budded (grafted) onto them. They are allowed to grow for a year, then harvested and sold. Budded rose bushes, otherwise known as bare root roses, can be easily stored in refrigerated warehouses for 6 months and can be inexpensively shipped to home gardeners or commercial growers for resale as blooming potted roses. They'll produce a full sized blooming rosebush the first season. Cuttings can take from 4 to 12 weeks to root. Once rooted they must be moved to a larger pot which makes them more labor intensive. Sold as newly rooted cuttings,(bands), they can take two or more years in the garden to reach the size of a budded rose. If raised to near full size, shipping costs can be more than the bush as they're usually shipped in the pot. Dirt costs a lot to ship. One cane = 12 bushes vs one cane = 3 bushes. Easy storage and shipping vs costly shipping and no storage. Which would you choose? Growing potted plants must be sold soon or they lose their flowers and must be stored until thy rebloom. Most home gardeners buy the flower, not the variety like rose enthusiasts do. It boils down to economics with grafted roses for the big growers or ease of starting just a few roses from cuttings for the home gardener. For us at home, it's not the money. We can babysit and wait for a plant to grow. This is an over simplified explanation as there is more involved with either method, but I think you get the idea?

Thanks to the suggestions here, I did some Googling. I believe the Rambler is Rosa roxburghii plena burr-less. It seems to have self-layered to create three babies, which I have just moved elsewhere. If they survive, perhaps I'll give grafting a try to propogate a pretty yellow rose I found on the other side of the house. The Hybrid Tea that I think reverted may just have been strangled by the Rambler, Ivy, and neglect. I could not find a tag on it. The other roses I found in the same small area still had their tags. I've cleared out the brush to give it some breathing room. I could have sworn I saw a beautiful dark red rose in that location once. I do not know what these roses are because they came with the house when I bought it. Also from Googling, I believe one rose on the other side of the house is rootstock "Dr. Huey." I've cut it way back. QUESTION:color> Do pieces of root from Dr. Huey or Rosa Rexburghii send up shoots on their own? How do I make sure I completely remove R. Rexburghii to ensure that it doesn't resprout? It's about 15x15 feet now, with potential to grow much larger as it gets into the trees. This, in a front yard that is small. I'd be happy to turn it into rootstock suitable for grafting, or move it to the back of the lot. Rain2Fall

Lux, Pink Clouds is Burling's preferred stock as she says it remains ready to bud much of the year. Her Chip Budding method Donald shared above is particularly suited to it. Being mainly multiflora, it roots very easily. You need to root it this year for budding next. I can happily share cuttings with you if you need/want them. It's a largish, often once flowering climber with potential for repeat in good circumstances. Private message me if you'd like cuttings. Priority Mail gets things from El Lay to NorCal (and vice versa) in two to two and a half days. More than you would ever want will fit in a small Priority box. I just budded to some last week and they appear to be doing fine. Another I like very much is using Cardinal Hume as under stock. It roots as easily as Pink Clouds and has accepted everything I've put on it. To hedge my bets, I budded the wood I received to both Pink Clouds and Hume, as well as tried rooting the remaining material. Normally, rooting here in the heat doesn't work, but I massaged it a bit, using seed starter mix instead of potting soil. I placed the pot in filtered direct sun for the morning hours. They're nearly two weeks old and still green and plump. The largest one actually has swelling buds. But, if you'd like either or both of these stocks to play with, I'll be happy to share. A main issue to keep in mind is, match the guage of your bud wood with that of the stock. A bud from an inch thick stem won't work on a half inch thick stock. You can do the reverse, but the stock has to be at least as thick as the bud stick or the bud won't make sufficient contact to callus. Kim Here is a link that might be useful: Pink Clouds.