You got a nice plant there! I'm a big fan of Myrmecodia & Hydnophytum too! I've never propagated mine by cuttings (some kinds of plants that normally form thickened stems or caudices when grown from seed, don't form them when grown from cuttings; I didn't know if it'd be worth a try). I have grown Hydnophytum from seed, though. If down the line you have seeds to plant, I'll second what the copied article above says-- make sure to get them planted while they're fresh. They'll sprout almost immediately that way, but the germination rate goes down very quickly if they're stored. Now--- I'm going to question the ID...but I promise not to call it a Ficus or an Adenium! Hydnophytum moseleyanum is very, very often misnamed in the horticultural trade as H. formicarium. They're similar, but the real formicarium has a much more flattened-circular, symmetrical caudex, often (though not always) with a rough, channeled surface. It also has very prominent, raised leaf veins and leaves with very blunt, rounded tips. The real H. moseleyananum has thicker, smoother leaves with a bit of a point at the very tips. The base might have a little roughness, but it won't be have the ridges that H. formicarium often does, and it's most apt to be taller for its width, oval, and often lumpy/asymmetrical. There's some good information and pictures here that help tell the two apart: http://home.nc.rr.com/myrmecophyte/hydno1.html There's a link to H. formicarium info on the same page as the H. mosely. info. The clickable link below really spells it out well, IMO. Enjoy your new plant-- it's a beauty!

mark the side of the pot with tape - so you know the direction of the light and when you move it, make sure to turn it, so the light source is in the same direction: otherwise very young buds can drop off (they try to turn towards the light). once the buds are at least 1/2" they hang on much better. but i still do not risk twisting it too much, it'll set the buds on non-light side anyway, just a little later and slower. i would continue moving it for another week may be, as you have too few buds yet. 72F is ok. usually, you keep them drier before and after the blooms, but not during the flowering. if it dries up too much it can drop buds. very generally plants need steady moisture when in bloom. don't water unless the top of the soil feels dry, but it should not dry up more then 1/3 of the pot (test with skewer/chopstick like a cake test, you'll see where is starts getting dryer, at what depth: you can leave the skewer in the pot and just lift it for a check). mine is also in the west window in spare room, where it's only natural light. it always sets flowers. i bring it in for viewing only when they really start opening (which takes about 3 weeks?). This post was edited by petrushka on Thu, Nov 20, 14 at 12:27

I use home defense. I know all of you are looking for a chemical free way to rid yourselves of ants, but Home Denfense doesn't hurt anything. Just spray the perimeter of your house and also your windows and doorways. Also inside under the counters and fridge. Keep your pets away until it dries and then they can come back. Since it has no odor, dogs and cats can't smell it, so they have no temptation to sniff or lick it. I have two chihuahuas and a cat, and they have had no problems so far. You can also get it in granuals. It doesn't hurt plants, but it can hurt fish and lizards, so keep it away from those. And not only does it kill all types of ants, but it kills roaches, beetles, earwigs, mosquitos, fire ants, crickets, centipedes, flies, pantry pests, scorpions, spiders, sliverfish, and ticks. Here is a link that might be useful: Go here for more information.

What a great idea! Id love to contribute. Do you have a collection already? I know that most people would love to swap with you - are you after rare ones or just a general collection? Are you doing desert cactus or jungle (shady) ones? Email me and Ill let you know what Ive got at the moment. Cheers