Thanks for the input, but I've been propagating the plants you mentioned for decades, no hormones are needed. I was looking for a more in-depth discussion of people's experiences with the different variegations in differing light conditions. My plant survived in the teens. Again I thank you, but I'm not sure you really read what I wrote at all. One thing I can say with certainty is the more the plant is varigated the more it not only will tolerate the sun but has become accustom to it. Strong markings on the leaves are due to bright light, which can actually lessen if not provided the same lighting conditions. This has nothing to do with the health of the plant, however. Copied from Variegated Plants; The Encyclopedia of Patterned Foliage by Susan Conder: The parts I think apply to Pothos are in pink but this info is very general. Variegation can't be discussed as a single entity. Variegated plants originate naturally as random seedlings, or as sports - mutant variegated shoots on otherwise plain green plants. Some, such as Abutilon pictum 'Thompsonii', are virus-induced, in the same way that the streaked colours of 'Bizarre' tulips result from a harmless virus. In red-or purple-variegated plants, chlorophyll, the green pigment responsible for photosynthesis and vital for non-parasitic plants' survival, is masked by other pigments, anthocyanins. Yellow and white variegations are caused by imperfect or absent chloroplasts, the granule-like plastids within a cell which contain chlorophyll. In a white- or yellow-edged leaf, the green pigment functions normally in the inner layer of leaf cells, but the outer layer lacks chloroplasts, making the edges white, or contains a preliminary version of chlorophyll, protochlorophyll, creating yellow. A yellow- or white-centered leaf, with green edges, has a defective inner layer of leaf cells. The attractive pink, red or russet spring flushes that some variegated leaves have result from anthocyanins protecting the vulnerable new growth from harsh ultraviolet light rays. Autumnal flushes result from an accumulation of sugar in the leaf tissues, caused by a drop in night temperatures which triggers the production of anthocyanins and anthoxanthins. Variegated plants are often weaker and less floriferous, with smaller and fewer blooms, than their all-green counterparts, but it is a matter of degree. Shelter is often more important for variegated than all-green plants, especially thin-leaved, white- and yellow-variegated types, which can brown if exposed to hot sun, wind or extreme cold, thus destroying their ornamental value. The intensity of leaf colour is affected by the amount of light available. There are exceptions, but generally, variegated plants with glaucous foliage, such as rue and certain hostas, tolerate more sun than all-green kinds. Those with purple, maroon and brown variegations colour most intensely in sun, often becoming dirty green in shade. ...

I LOOOVVVVEEE foliage colors as well as prudy flowers so I ordered: Angelica "Corinne Tremaine"...variegated "Ebony" dark purple foliage Aquilegia: "Alchemist's Gold" "Alchemist's Mix" "Burnished Rose" "Sunburst Ruby" Barbarea "Winter Cream"/winter crests variegated AND edible Duchesnea ""...var. strawberry w/ yellow blooms. I have var. strawberry but w/ white blooms Hesperis matronalis variegata..Variegated Dame's Rocket Leycesteria Gold Leaf..gold leaf honeysuckle Myosota Rolled Gold...gold leaf 4-get-me-not Oenothera Blood Orange...evening primrose...OK not a foliage plant but the blooms are unique Origanum vulgare aureum...Gold leaf oregano Prostathera lasianthos..Victorian Christmas Bush..Weird Dr. Suess type plant Ruta graveolens variegata...Variegated rue...variegation plus a butterfly/caterpillar host plant Silene/ragged robin: Graham's Delight"...variegated Purple Price...dark purple foilage Peggy

Gwynne - one thing I have learned (as it has been driven into me with a very large hammer over time), is never say never. You see, the thing about butterflies is that we really don't have any control over whether they will appear or not, whether they will lay eggs or not, or when we are likely to see them in our gardens eventually. The only thing I can say is that if you keep gardening on your balcony with relatively the same host plants you have, you will eventually see some. It may not be this year, or even next year, but they'll come. I've had the tiniest patch of Aristolochia clematitis for 4-5 years now, and just got a miniscule population of Pipevine Swallowtails this year for the first time. A lot of times, other people from Oklahoma, especially those who live in rural areas who get many more than I do, get a lot earlier in the season than I do. It just depends. Last year was the first time I ever got GSTs early in the year. I usually get them in late summer-early fall. I haven't had any this early this year, so I'm not expecting any, if I get them at all, until late summer. If I do, it will be a pleasant surprise. Sometimes it's the anticipation that makes it all worthwhile. Once you get your first GST, then it will be waiting for your first PVS or GF, or Variegated Frit, or something else. It's like putting a carrot in front of the horse's nose. We just keep being led into this marvelous journey. And, as my mother used to say, a watched pot never boils, if you get my drift. LOL! Last year I was hootin' and hollerin' because we were in a drought, and I hadn't seen ANY butterflies to speak of. This year has been a wet season, so we've had many more. Also, last year I was able to attract a lot of the Silvery Checkerspots and Bordered Patches with nectar, and this year I have the cats! It seems like once they DO find your garden, they'll be back with tiny little gifts. Susan

I have the following for SASBE: canna Richard Wallace rhizomes Florence Vaughn rhixomes White Butterfly Ginger ehizomes Purple Mexican Petunia cuttings White nerium oleander rooted Please email jen@gulfcoastrentals.com