Seattle (windy Ballard neighborhood) has been mild this winter, with only a few nights below freezing and the lowest temperature around -25 F degrees at my house. My 10-yr-old feijoa bush still has a few small fruits that drop occasionally. Summer 2017 was a fabulous flowering year, producing a light spring flush and a heavy mid-summer flush. The spring flowers did not form fruit (absolutely NO honeybees this year), so I hand-pollinated the summer flowers several times by touching robust flowers to other open flowers and got probably > 200 fruits. I had read that hand pollination is abut 95% successful, whereas natural pollination is poor (maybe 25% successful). By November, I had harvested about 5 ripe/75 unripe fruits that I washed and stored in the fridge, and air-ripened in small batches on the counter. Most stayed very sour, with a sweeter interior that reminded me of those pastel Smarties candiess (the US candy, not the UK chocolate kind). Only a few fruits achieved that creamy, ethereal floral-scented pineapple-strawberry-kiwi taste that I remembered from New Zealand, but it was enough to inspire me to make earlier hand-pollination efforts this year. It is my favorite fruit, after tomato. One thing I have noticed is that despite the leathery leaves and apparent drought tolerance, my feijoa needs a lot of water when fruiting—like a good soaking every few days—for the fruit to form normally. Otherwise they produce small fruits about the size and shape of my outer thumb joint without much moisture or flavor.

I used mushroom compost to amend the planting area for a feijoa--but the compost was about 1/4 of the total soil mix. At least 1/2 was the original soil, then sand, pumice, greensand, ironite, etc.

From my experience, fully open fejoa blossoms will have free pollen (flies around in the air when blossom is tapped) by day 3. By day 5 and thereafter, the filaments begin falling off. I hand-pollinate every 3 days. I find my fingertips accumulate far more pollen than a brush, and one can use both hands with the fingertip method, speeding things up. A color clue is a bright yellow anther. A brush would be too tedious for my 1,000 blossoms this year -- far behind the 3 to 5 thousand blooms of recent years (milder winters). I would think most feijoa bushes would be bloomed out by now. Late-season blooms often do not have time to form sizeable fruit. When you say fruit developing now do you mean the area below the blossom is swelling? It can take several weeks post-bloom for this to happen.

In Central Florida near the East Coast we have a big problem with fruit flies both the Caribbean variety and the standard fruit fly. I have a home orchard with two guava trees. One is a Ruby Supreme guava and the other a Barbie Pink guava. The Ruby Supreme was under incessant attack by the fruit flies. Nothing I tried including spraying or using traps with apple cider vinegar and dish soap could eradicate them. Actually, the latter seemed to be effective against the Caribbean fruit fly but not against the standard fruit fly. To make a long story short I uprooted and destroyed the Ruby Supreme guava tree. It was painful because I love guavas but it's just too much trouble dealing with those pesky critters. The Barbie Pink guava is still in my orchard but I have noticed the fruit flies attacking it. So I removed all the fruit and threw them away. I will most likely destroy that tree also later this winter or maybe repot it into a half whiskey barrel planter. It might make a good gift for my sister if/when she buys her own home. Or if I could get a greenhouse installed in my yard then I could isolate the tree from the flies. I also have the feijoa selliowana (aka the pineapple guava) tree in my garden. The 5 of them are in pots and I had thought about making a hedge out of them. They don't seem to tolerate the blistering summer heat of Florida so they need to be in shady spot during the late afternoon hours. I am not sure if the fruit fly can attack the pineapple guava because it seems they have a much thicker peel than the ordinary guavas. A thick peel is the best line of defense against fruit flies I hear. I was hoping someone on this forum could confirm if they are resistant to fruit flies or not. But it has to be a report from someone who lives in an area that is prone to that sort of infestation.