I prefer to pre-finish trim. That way you're working at a comfortable height rather than crawling around on your knees and picking up the inevitable dust from the floor with your paint brush. To me, the end result is better. Brads aren't really sufficient to hang a door. Hand nail some bigger finish nails or use some trim head screws. Remove one screw from each hinge and drive a longer screw into the framing to help support the door. Make sure you have shims behind the hinges when you drive the screw, the force can pull the jamb out of plumb/square. Brads are quite sufficient for trim.

Three things, knowledge, tools, and time. Most important of these is the knowledge of how to safely work around electrical equipment. This includes, but is not limited to, understanding how to correctly de-energize and test circuits before beginning work. Also, proper techniques are imperative when stripping, splicing, and terminating conductors as well as installing electrical wiring and devices. There are a number of DIY'er books available that help illustrate these points. Also needed is at least a basic understanding of the circuits being worked with. This can be gained through books, experience and the friendly folks on the Electrical Wiring Forum. Finally, the knowledge of proper tool use and selection is a must. Some tools such as multi-meters take some time and practice to utilitze properly. The tools required can vary from nothing more than a tester, a screwdriver and a pair of wire strippers for replacing a receptacle all the way up to a truckload of tools and equipment to wire an entire home. At the very least an electrical tool kit should include the following for simple replacement of switches or receptacles: Tester: The most important tool and imperative in testing for properly de-energized circuits and useful for trouble-shooting problems. These can vary from simple testers that use a neon light or incandescent bulb up to solenoid testers (Wiggys) and multi-meters. Regardless of the tester used it is important to understand how to use it when verifying that circuits are de-energized. Non-contact voltage testers, while very useful, should not be used as the only means of testing a circuit for safety. Screwdrivers: An assortment of Phillips and flat-bladed screwdrivers should be adequate, however with Robertson (square recess) screws becoming more popular, a Robertson driver can be useful at times. Pliers and cutters: At least a pair of linesman's pliers (8" or 9"), needle-nosed pliers, and diagonal cutters (dikes). Also useful are pliers with built-in crimpers. Wire strippers: A good pair of strippers will cleanly remove the insulation from wires with a minimum of effort and without nicking or damaging the conductors. Although more expensive doesn't always equate to better quality, the cheap $2.95 strippers that can be found in some stores should be avoided. A good pair will usually run $10-$12 and up. Of course even if armed with knowledge and the best tools, it takes time to do any job properly. From the standpoints of safety and reliability, attention to detail is vitally important when performing electrical work. Always budget plenty of time to perform tasks and if an unexpected situation is encountered don't guess at the right solution . . . take the time to find out the correct answer. Be sure to check the main FAQ page for other topics related to safety, tool selection, and tool use. Thanks to Sangan, Mizzou_KX, Normel, DavidR and Tom_O for their help on this topic.

Setting up takes some planning but it's easy. The first thing you need to do is to decide on what type of bin you want. The simplest bins can be constructed by using plastic organizing containers. You will need to drill holes in the bottom for drainage and in the sides for airflow. Although these are inexpensive, they are not as good an option as other designs. For example, harvesting the castings in this type requires that you separate the worms from the castings. There are other options such as flow through bins or stackable systems. These can be built or purchased. Worms The next thing you need to decide is what type of worms to use. There are several choices including red wrigglers. These are a good choice because they are hardy and perform very well in bins. They live in colonies naturally so they are ideally suited for this purpose. Bedding The worms need bedding so that they have a place to live. Bedding consists of many types of materials such as shredded paper (no glossy ads), aged manures, or even cardboard. Worm Tea The leachate from the bin is called worm tea. This is the liquid that drains off the bottom. It is filled with valuable humic acids and other dissolved nutrients that are great for plants. It's important to provide adequate drainage so that the worm don't drown in the tea. To collect the tea, place a suitable container below the bin such as a shallow plastic tray. Separating castings from worms. There are several ways to do this. One is to feed on one side of the bin to draw the worms to one side. When they congregate on one side you can harvest castings from the opposing side. Other methods include using screens to separate worms from castings.

We built our last home. Am I glad we did it. Yes Hired out what we couldn't do ourselves. Which was basically the shell, HVAC, and electric. We got exactly what we wanted with the quality of workmanship we wanted. Would I do it again. No. Good luck and remember everything will work out in the end.