dadoes, Thanks for reply, I have the capacitor out of the unit sitting on my desk now. I will be sourcing a replacement tomorrow. I found some online, but do you know what type of store sells these items? I usually go to Dayco in columbus Ohio for my appliance parts, but I think this item might be restricted to electrical type supply stores. Any suggestions are appreciated. Cap markings: GE CAPACITOR: 97F9895 5UF 45UF...........370 VAC +06.....-06%.....50/60Hz PROTECTED......P968 S10000AFC......7134GB03 DIELEKTROL.....VI HC98JA046D 1432

Here is what I think is going to play out best for you if you are going to be in the house long enough and will heat primarily with wood. Keep in mind that I am an amateur with absolutely no experience in duct systems. I decommissioned mine at the first opportunity and installed mini splits. I'll gladly accept all criticism from anyone that actually knows something. Berto, you've already said that you are going to have ducted AC, (I'd look at mini-split heat pumps, but that is me and I don't have the time to split wood.) It ought to be pretty simple to make a dual furnace system with a wood furnace first in series with the (second) propane or electric furnace. Your thermostat turns on the AHU blower (for me, ideally, a variable speed blower with a proportional thermostat). If the wood boiler is supplying sufficient heat the secondary furnace does not run. If the duct temp between the furnaces falls below a set temp (which might slide depending on outdoor temperature) the secondary furnace fires up. If the day comes that you tire of cutting and splitting wood, you pull out the cheap furnace and put in a mod con furnace. It is no biggie to toss that first furnace because it was inexpensive to start with. The duct system has to be designed to support both heat sources and cooling. The furnace that you choose will have to be just good enough to run a cooling system well which might be more costly than the least expensive that you might use for (back up) heating alone. Keep in mind that a (complicated) super efficient furnace or boiler is not going to be a good investment in a well-insulated and sealed house that is primarily heated with wood. The ROI time will look like infinity.

The only way to properly size the system is with a industry accepted manual J load calculation. That is step 1. I have been supplying load calculations for over 35 years and it is the only way to get it right. The size required is determined by the construction materials, area weather patterns, family usage of the home and direction the home faces. Always get a load calculation done first. Other than that and you are just guessing. The air distribution system can not be sized correctly without the manual J load calculations. 8 tons does sound like a lot. The unit run time controls the humidity. You.must get it right.

Don't worry, buying the right coil cleaner for your air conditioner is a real thing. Using the wrong cleaner can actually cause damage and lead to costly repairs. Luckily, there are plenty of resources out there to help you find the right cleaner for your specific make and model. You can try checking out https://hot2coldairconditioning.com/, they have a lot of helpful info and product recommendations. As for buying the cleaner, it might be tempting to go with the first one you see on Amazon, but be careful! Always double-check that it's compatible with your AC unit. If you're still unsure, it might be worth reaching out to the manufacturer or a professional HVAC technician for advice.