Yes there is, although few people turn the compost that often. Most of the time new compost folks want to know why their tumbler/pile/composting method is not getting the heat they have heard about. Tumbler advertising may say temps can reach 165F. But temps will only rise quickly and to high point (say 130F to 165F in the warmer months) if the following conditions are met: 1) pile is big enough to retain heat 2) moisture is in proper range 3) small particle size 4) correct mix of C:N materials (greens to brown) I have had core (center of pile, that is where the compost thermometer is stuck for the best reading) temp of 165F after two days. Am I correct is thinking that a Earth Machine is more the slower digester type than the faster tumbler type? Some people will warn against high temps like 165F. But there is a big difference between a backyard composter with a starting core temp of 165 and a commercial operation with the same 165F. My bins are 4'by8'by2' high. If I get a starting core temp of 150F in the middle soon after making my compost pile of finely shredded fall leaves mixed with a little grass, all the better. So I turn the pile, and water it a bit. Each day I stick my $20 compost thermometer in, and check the core temp. And I turn and water as necessary. BUT each time it is a bit lower. So after a few week or months, the first stage of composting is thru. But should this be described as compost of 150F? No way. How about a mix of cold and hot compost, that would be more accurate.

Wow those are sunny warm conditions. Of outside you might be able to do it every other day. Really depends inthat mix. Unless anyone has better advice just do it enough to keep the soil moist to dry side of moist, not wet. Digg 2-3 inches down with ur finger to really tell. Te top might be bone dry but it could still be moist half way down where the roots are. If in doubt, go dry.

There has been a long thread going on in the Compost and Mulch Forum about what time of day to water. Somebody started the thread with the old wives tale that it is bad to water plants in the heat of the day. Several scientific types provided evidence that this is not true. One guy, who seems to be in the know, said it is important for some less sturdy plants, or young plants, to receive water mid-day when temps are really hot. The thread is entitled something like "Things My Mither Told Me". They all discussed overhead versus ground watering. I've long been a believer in ground watering. The reasons given for not using sprinklers, or watering from above, don't have anything to do with leaf burn. I have to water mid-day twice a week because of my schedule. I have seen no ill affects. By the way, desrtlvr, the Conchas are growing. There has been some leaf yellowing. I didn't know if that was a result of too little, or too much water. I opted for believing the plants needed more water. Seems to have been the right choice. Lorna

> Probably the most important rule about fertilizing is to never feed a tree that is under stress. The causes of stress are many, ranging from over watering or under watering to newly pruned roots or disease. > Once again, it is so very important to know what type of tree your bonsai is. Different types have specific needs as to the type and frequency of fertilization. > Many enthusiasts who have some experience think the safest method, with no fuss, is 4 month type of 14-14-14 time release fertilizer, such as Osmocote. This is incorporated right into the potting mix or sprinkled on the surface and worked down into the mix. > Most broadleaf trees and tropicals can be fed with any general houseplant or garden fertilizer. > Conifers, azaleas and certain others can benefit from a monthly application of an acidic fertilizer, such as MirAcid. > Some growers include hormones such as Superthrive in their regimen to stimulate root production. > Trees should only be fertilized when in periods of active growth. This is generally from midspring through early summer and from late summer to early fall. > If your summers are extremely hot and your trees are outdoors, do not fertilize until temperatures have moderated and growth has resumed. > Likewise, do not feed trees in winter when they are either dormant or growth has slowed down. > Some growers prefer organic fertilizers over chemicals. This is an ongoing debate and much too lengthy to go into detail here.