Every day, if you have it. I use knee high stockings but only after I've been seen with them in the garden of course. 3pr/$1 at the $1store. Remove both ends of a can, inserted into the stocking while you add a pound or two of compost/manure. Use your fav search engine for many thousand more ideas. Then compile your very own 'recipe'. I don't think you'll go wrong. Good Luck, Gumby_CT

> Probably the most important rule about fertilizing is to never feed a tree that is under stress. The causes of stress are many, ranging from over watering or under watering to newly pruned roots or disease. > Once again, it is so very important to know what type of tree your bonsai is. Different types have specific needs as to the type and frequency of fertilization. > Many enthusiasts who have some experience think the safest method, with no fuss, is 4 month type of 14-14-14 time release fertilizer, such as Osmocote. This is incorporated right into the potting mix or sprinkled on the surface and worked down into the mix. > Most broadleaf trees and tropicals can be fed with any general houseplant or garden fertilizer. > Conifers, azaleas and certain others can benefit from a monthly application of an acidic fertilizer, such as MirAcid. > Some growers include hormones such as Superthrive in their regimen to stimulate root production. > Trees should only be fertilized when in periods of active growth. This is generally from midspring through early summer and from late summer to early fall. > If your summers are extremely hot and your trees are outdoors, do not fertilize until temperatures have moderated and growth has resumed. > Likewise, do not feed trees in winter when they are either dormant or growth has slowed down. > Some growers prefer organic fertilizers over chemicals. This is an ongoing debate and much too lengthy to go into detail here.

That all depends on your plants. There is no one "recipe" since the needs of a bog terr will be vastly different than that of one catering to plants from arid regions. Generally speaking -- for terrs w/ the more common/typical houseplants -- some condensation on the glass is okay, but if you are getting lots of water droplets condensing and running down the sides of the terr then you have things too wet. Open the terrarium to let some of it evaporate. Watering/misting may be done when the glass remains dry near the soil line (no condensation at all). If the surface soil is dry but still moist a little deeper down, you should still be fine water-wise. The goal w/ the major of plants people use is to keep the soil evenly moist -- not soggy. It should also be noted that one should have a very light hand when watering -- it is always easier to add more water later if needed than it is to remove excess water! If it comes to erring on the side of caution, most plants seem to be able to handle soil a little too dry than too wet.

"Most gardening is simply done best in the ground.☺" For many folks, especially those unfamiliar with growing in containers and the unique set of growing requirements container culture demands, that is probably true :-) But not everyone has the necessary real estate or ability for inground gardening and that's where container growing comes into the picture. And you cannot equate inground gardening and its methods with container gardening and the different methods it demands. Using garden soil in that case is just not going to work well!! It is far too heavy and dense, with slow drainage and lack of pore space and necessary aeration, and the typical listed accompaniments, like compost or leaf mold, only exacerbate that problem. It is VERY difficult to assure necessary drainage and proper aeration for the roots of container plants in that sort of medium and a poorly draining medium will lead to stunting and lack of productivity, disease issues and even root rots and death. You CAN'T use just any soil and expect good results!! It just doesn't work that way! Anthony, I would urge you to read this thread carefully to help you understand the differences and with a greater understanding of container culture, then perhaps you will change your ill-advised suggestions :-)