Check out the mature width on helpmefind.com and plant accordingly. If the mature width of the roses you are planting is 3 feet, that means the rosebush will grow out 1 1/2 feet each way from it's center. By planting them three feet apart the bushes will touch when mature. Planting them 42 inches apart means there should be 12 inches of space between the bushes when mature. The mature size is influenced by your growing zone, how you fertilize, how you water, and how you prune. If you want them to grow together late in the season you can plant them closer together or if you want them to be distinctly separated you can plant then farther apart. When room is at a premium, you can plant them closer and keep them pruned back more. At one time I had 550 bushes on a lot 165'by 60' My roses were planted 18 inches apart. by summers end, they were terribly growing into each other but the effect was stunning. I could get away with it because I sprayed and the bushes experienced a lot of winter dieback resulting in much smaller bushes each spring as a result of the severe pruning required. In my larger lot here where I live now, the bushes are 3-4 feet apart or more depending on their mature size. I have less disease pressure due to better air circulation around each bush. That's something else to take into consideration.

For the very short period of time that you indicate the new roses will be in water, soak as much of the plant as you possibly can. If possible, submerge the entire plant. If things don't work out as planned, and if (like me, sometimes) you end up soaking those bareroots for WEEKS, then perhaps you might consider soaking just the lower portion -- which might (or might not) include the bud unions and a portion of the canes, in addition to the roots. The most important thing to keep in mind is the roots. At a minumum, keep the roots soaking until you can get your roses planted.

... in any case, once you start shaving off space down to the thickness of a couple fingers, what really counts is air circulation, heat and humidity in the air (A/C on all the time or not), and where the heat pipes are underneath the metal cladding of Your Chosen fridge. To get fresh air to flow around it and to give the air an exit path too, it would make sense to put a mini fan (the size of what you see inside a PC) somewhere under the cabinets, without any kickplate either. The manufacturers won't help you because they don't want to discuss how close is just barely close enough and not too much -- and they wouldn't want to start saying that arid climate dwellers have a bit more freedom to squeeze the fridge and humid climate dwellers have to leave more space... If you build the fridge into an airtight plastic bag, it will fail as a fridge because its heat will be retained in the bag surrounding it. Same thing for a smaller and smaller space, you just end up heating the material surrounding it. I know the small LG has a lot of its heat pipes in the front sides near the door gasket, adn this is mentioned in its online PDF. Someone posted here how it still manages to work even after he built it into a tight space and had it practically "plug" the space. It's a 24" wide fridge. HTH

Hi Jax. I am in the same position. Our kitchen is currently 11 1/2 x 12, L shaped and the dining room is 14 x 12. The dining room opens into the living room with just a decorative moulding separating the two rooms. I'm planning on taking down the wall between the dining room and kitchen and making a penisula but need to move the wall into the dining room for more space since I'll be losing the upper cabinetry. We're taking 12 - 15 inches from the dining room space. We can't take any more because we also have a very large box out window in the dining room and don't want to add to the expense of moving that window. So the dining room are will now be 13 x 12 which I think is still a decent size. Our advantage is we can extend into the living room if necessary for large get togethers. Hope this helped.