You are killing it with kindness! In nature the ancestors grow in tropical Monsoonal Climates where there is a wet season and a dry(er) season. The dry season in general is still warm especially by day and humidity is lower. Those ancestors grow on a rock or a tree and the roots get wet and then they dry. The roots are not growing in something like spag. that never dries out. I was trying to find the thread where Jane who used to live in NY posted pictures of her hard-cane Dendrobiums. Couldn't find it but it is on the page 1 somewhere. The conditions in your growing area cannot be too bad because the plant has bloomed and the flower didn't drop off. Follow what Bob said and see how you go. Forget about all this misting stuff. Water thoroughly and let dry is the go unless you are trying to grow cloud forest orchids.

As I said above you probably will have to add shading for the hotter months, but it is a matter of trial and error and experience to get the conditions inside right for what ever you want to grow. Phalaenopsis gigantea is a tropical lowland orchid from Bornea. It grows in the understory so it it is getting shelter from the hot sun. The gigantea bit refers to the size of the leaves. Probably needs a daily temperature range of something like min 20C Max 30C with air movement and high humidity. Seeing you are just starting why compound your problems by repotting/demounting orchids. Sit back and observe, do some research and buy a gadget to measure the temperature and humidity in your glass-house. Which is where in the USA?

Never, ever put your Phals outside comments i've made in the past apply to here, not necessarily NE USA. As far as getting flowers, if you read the first post plus the in depth FAQ on the subject it all begins to make sense . There are the two groups of Phals. those that need a cool down and those that need a warm up to flower. (though perhaps day length might apply to some species) Some that need a warm up (here) are Phal.violacea and Doritis pulcherrima Phal.equestris blooming seems to be triggered by a cooling down. Cheating. (Phal.equestris x Dor. pulcherrima) x Kingiella philippense bloomed late summer for years in my conditions. After reading various posts i though i would try to make it bloom in the spring so i moved it to my warmer growing conditions in Autumn. Worked like a charm. I agree with the comments about increased light but of course it all depends where you are. No Phal will survive summer or winter outside here, Too hot (sometimes) Too cold (sometimes) and low humidity when the wind blows from the interior of the Continent. Leaf Burn is a function of light plus high temperatures.

Based on my experience for winter/spring blooming phals.. Most winter/spring blooming phals need a couple of weeks of an @15 degree temp drop between day and night temps in the fall. Notice I said a 15 degree difference, not down to 50 or 55, so if you normally run at 75-80 during the day, 60-65 at night should induce spikes on winter/spring bloomers. They also need enough light through rest of the year to get good healthy growth to support spikes, good light for a month or so in the fall ain't enough. And finally, an overall good fert/watering routine to keep things healthy and growing strong. Also a lot of species orchids/primary hybrids bloom in the summer, so you need to understand what you have and when it normally spikes/blooms. I agree with Jane in that it looks like it is dehydrated and the roots don't look too bad. Try keeping it damper or watering a little more often. DANGER WARNING!!!!!: In a dry office environment I've found that leaving a little water (1/2") in the cache pot for a day or so seems to really help in keeping moisture around the roots. Be VERY VERY careful here though, be sure to drain the cache pot after a day or so and never let it sit in water for more than 1 day. Good luck, Bob