I've been overwintering peppers in 5-1-1 and similar mixes for over six years now, and I still have the first Hungarian Wax pepper I grew....back in 2008. One key factor is the size of the container you'll be using. I use a #1 nursery container for my peppers, trimming the roots to fit, and filling with fresh mix that includes Osmocote. For most of the Winter, I water around once a week or so, and fertilize 2 - 3 times a month at 1/2 strength. If I see lots of foliage growth and blooms (typically around mid-January), I start to increase the dosage strength of the Foliage Pro. If you unfamiliar with watering these mixes, poke a wooden kabob skewer into your containers and use that to tell you when the mix is drying out. Josh

Hi, AV's are easy plants to care for once you get the hang of growing them. I cannot tell you how often to water. It depends on light, heat, etc. in your home. But, I do let mine dry out on top of the soil before I water again. Then I bottom water and let it soak for 20 minutes. Water that is not absorbed is poured out. I also use Shulz fertilizer. If the plants are not flowering, I fertilize every watering. When buds set I slow way down on it. Then I fertilize sparingly. I think in the winter you should let them be a bit drier and fertilize less. Remember, they need a bright position (east is best, or west) to flower well. Good luck and enjoy! Jen

I think the comment about a new thread was directed at hottina44 and their question about indoor lighting. That was off topic. alex_g76, Some of those metals are perhaps toxic to mammals when ingested in too high a dose, but that is not the same as with plants. The plants will only take up what they need and leave the rest. Besides, if you look at the actual amounts of metals it is very tiny. Most are MICRO nutrients anyway, and are only needed by plants in very tiny amounts. They might be build up in the potting soil over time, but potted plants should be re-potted with fresh soil every few years anyway, long before the micro-nutrients will build up to any noticeable levels. So you need not worry about that imo. Btw, it's not commonly known, but almost all organic fertilizers are made for and will work best in In-Ground plantings. Organic fertilizers are made of raw ingredients, such as blood meal and bone meal, etc. Those components cannot be used by the plant as food itself. The fertilizer relies on the micro-organisms in the soil to ingest the raw ingredients and convert them to chemicals (yep, chemicals) that the plant can then uptake into it's roots. If those organic fertilizers are used in relatively sterile potting medium, not much happens. They pretty much just sit there. And your plant can starve while there is lots of food sitting right there. The components (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus [NPK] and other macro and micro- nutrients) that the soil organisms produce from the raw ingredients in the organic fertilizer, is the same at a molecular level as what you find in a standard non-organic fertilizer. The benefits of organic fertilizers in the soil is that they feed and therefore increase the soil micro-organisms, which is great for the soil structure and the roots of the plants. Unfortunately this dynamic is very, very hard to reproduce in potted container plants. Therefore I always recommend standard non-organic fertilizers in container plantings, preferably a liquid type, or a slow-release pelleted type, such as Osmocote. Also, as a side note; the metals and minerals in fertilizers cannot by law be called “organic” because the law states that a component has to have Carbon in it and be derived from a once living source to be labeled “organic” Of course these items do not contain carbon and have never been alive. So if you see a fertilizer labeled “organic and natural”, the word “natural” is in reference to the mineral and metal ingredients only. In reading the posts on the thread that bmelz linked, about fertilizing in containers with organics, it does look like some have done it with success but do note that most of what they are talking about is seasonal vegetables and some short lived ornamental plants. Those are often re-potted annually with fresh mix and compost. That works quite well as there is a lot of micro-organisms in compost and manure. But that type of mix also breaks down very quickly, usually be the end of a growing season. When mix breaks down the speed of water drainage slows down a lot. If you're re-potting every spring that's no big deal and the old soil mix just goes back on the compost pile and new mix is made. But with a long lived plant like a citrus tree that soil break down is problematic. Citrus are very sensitive to soggy soil. Most will say they're sensitive to over-watering, but it's not really the water that's the problem, it's the lack of oxygen in an overly saturated, soggy soil. Plant roots need both water and oxygen, so in a long lived plant like citrus using an open and airy mix that lasts a long time and doesn't break down fast is very important. Unfortunately the components of those kinds of mixes, such as Al's Gritty mix and the 5-1-1 mix are pretty sterile. Hence the recommendations of standard non-organic fertilizers. Now if one was to re-pot their citrus trees annually or semi-annually with a compost based mix, then I do believe an organic fertilizer would work. But for myself, I would find that way too much work.

I use a pre-emergent without nitrogen and look for what's available at my local stores. Southern States had a granular product with Dimension (0-0-7) and I got that. I used something similar last year, but I may have gotten it from Home Depot then. If you plan to overseed in the fall, be sure to read instructions on how soon after using the pre-emergent you can reseed. That may affect which one you choose.