Personally I'm a big fan of female ginkgos. After roasting the nuts myself I can say that these are my absolute favorite culinary nut of all time. Many Chinese and Japanese immigrants will come around with plastic bags and scoop up these delicious nuts (though this is a dying practice due to cultural shame and availability of ginkgos at Asian grocery stores). In 19th century Europe grafting a female branch onto male trees was common practice. I honestly think it's a shame that today we show such vitriol towards this incredible nut. They're also just tremendously fascinating. The oldest living fossil of any plant or animal species? Survivors of nuclear bombs? Seed dispersal through carnivorans? Incredible resistance to pollution, salinity, temperatures, rainfall patterns, and even radiation? The ability to live possibly over 3,000 years? Bizarre aerial root growth in very old specimens? The ginkgo truly has it all

No need to graft. The purpose of grafting is to take a fruit age twig off a mature tree and attach it to a better root stock to get a good tree with strong disease resistant roots and get fruit sooner. Since your twig is a baby it will not fruit until it is a large tree with it's own root or another trees roots' Yes, you can take buds off your tree and graft them on a desirable root stock. If this tree is your's to keep I would be inclined to keep it on it's own roots. You can still take buds of it and graft to a rootstock of your choice. That is what I had planned to do with a meiwa kumquat and a poncirus trifoliata rootstock. I found it to be so difficult I will keep my tree on its own roots.

I live in California and would like to grow my own Soursop tree. I can't find a single place where they would sell it and I know it's a very good fruit. Can anyone give me directions on how and where to start with growing my own tree? Please. I live in Palmdale. Hot in the summer very cold in the winter. A lot of wind. If you can even tell me of a place where they sell this fruit, I would appreciate that information as well. Thank you all ahead of time. Bless you all.

Several things jumped out at me in your follow-up post. Just seems that either it is small seedling or 3 ft plant get transplanted I still harvest the same time as everybody else. That sounds like a nutrient issue and nothing can stunt a plant faster than transplanting a 3' plant. Some unconventional practice? No unconventional practice but usually it is some conventional practice being missed. For example, are these all being grown for production in containers? Not real clear from your post. If so then what soil mix is in the containers? That is the most common cause of problems in container growing. Growing in containers is a totally different ballgame than in-ground growing so have you done any reading on the Container Gardening forum here? Great info on mixes, feeding, tips and techniques, etc. As far as pot growing. I grew peppers, but they need lots and lots of fertilizer in container. Not even sure if I should been eating it that much fertilizer. Yes they do, any container plant does since it leaches out every time you water. One reason why liquid ferts works so much better than granular ones do. But which specific fertilizer are you using? How much and how often? And no, you are not "eating it" anyway. Tomato in containers... I used about 80 gal pots with 2-3 tomato in each. Real potential problems there. To begin with I tried mix in bone meal and blood meal into compost, but it didn't seemed to help. No they won't. Both are slow acting and unless there is an active soil microweb in the container - which would be unusual - they aren't useable by the plants. Using organics in a container is a whole other set of issues. Then I started with tomato fertilizer. Then they started growing. And still very little, usually quite small tomato even on beefsteak varieties. Timing of the application as discussed in the thread I linked above is crucial. What type of fertilizer? After first batch of peppers harvested plants slowly started dying - leaves and blossoms just started falling off. Usually caused by over-watering issues that leads to root rot. Especially common if soil (dirt) is in the containers. In your first post you said I do have greenhouse and tried to grow those thing in pots, but that way they produce small quantities of fruit lots of leafs and usually ends up dying before summers end. As others have mentioned you have the ideal set up then for growing a good tomato crop in that protected environment. Even I can do it down here in my greenhouse with much greater heat problems. So if it isn't working in yours then, assuming good environmental controls and adequate sun exposure, the cause isn't that they are in the greenhouse, its in the methodology - the container mix being used or the nutrient methods being used. More details please on those. Especially nutrients and timing of applications since you mention "lots of leafs and small fruit". ...