Cuzn. I looked up the pdf you mentioned. Not how I do my bark grafts, but there are probably as many variations of a given grafting technique as there are grafters. Konrad, who's a frequent poster here, does his a little differently, as well - but it's a graft that takes quite nicely, and it's easy to do. My technique: Behead the rootstock with your pruners. Make a single vertical slit in the rootstock bark. Make a long, sloping cut in the base of your scion - just as you would for a simple whip graft. Now, shave some bark off the two 'long' sides, to expose some cambium tissue on the lateral edges. Gently 'lift' the edges of the slit in the rootstock bark and slide the scion down into the slit, until the cambium at the 'top' of your sloping basal cut is just above the level of the beheaded top of the rootstock. I wrap the union and scion with parafilm, then overwrap with rubber band - or sometimes, just with a couple layers of masking tape, if it's something that will callus in rapidly, like pears. For nut trees, I do a 'sap-stopper' modification of the graft above - instead of completely beheading the rootstock, I just cut 3/4-7/8 of the way through the stock and break the top over, leaving it attached, to serve as a sap-drawer/pressure relief valve, as nut trees often tend to bleed excessively. After the scion calluses in and growth commences, you can come back and snip off the still-attached top of the rootstock. Osborn's technique, as outlined in the pdf, may actually be a sturdier graft, less prone to 'blow-out/break-out' than mine - might try a few that way this year. I have done simple whip grafts on persimmon, with 100% success rate, before someone told me that persimmons are hard to graft. (They're NOT. But, aftercare, for at least the first growing season, IS.) Here is a link that might be useful: Grafting persimmons.

Mark, I don't have pictures or a link. Here's how I do it. I scrape the loose bark flakes off of where I want to put the graft. I cut a large T in the bark. The top of the T is usually a couple of inches long and the vertical is about 2 to 3 inches long. I peel back the bark to separate the bark from the sapwood. If the scion is cut from a non-dormant tree, cut the leaves off but leave the petioles, like one would make a budstick. If the scion is cut on top as opposed to a tip, then I dip it in wax. The bottom 1 1/2 inches or so of the scion is cut like a whip graft on one side and on the other side the bottom 1/4 of an inch is also cut so that it forms a kind of a wedge. The scion is pressed deeply into the T, with the larger cut side against the sapwood. The graft is then wrapped tightly with polyethylene tape, leaving the top buds of the scion unwrapped. I can usually tell if the graft has taken within 2 weeks. So far, it always has.

Rob, I posted on your other thread, before I read this one, but I'm doubtful you can hold peach wood long enough for your rootstock to throw suckers. However it might be different where you live. For me, the biggest challenge in summer budding is the blazing hot KS summers. I've found anything much above 90F makes my peach budding fairly unsuccessful. That means I have to do spring grafting in late May/Early June, or wait to do budding till around the 1st of Sept. (generally). You may get cool enough summers, you can graft/bud all summer long. For peach grafts to callus, the temps need to consistently be 80F minimum for the highs. Scott was the first one to tell me this, and I've found it to be true. I think there was some debate in the past on this fine point. I think Hman's experience was that it's more important for the peach to be completely leafed out. Either way, both occur about the same time here. Peach wood doesn't seem to handle long periods in the mail the best. I tried a couple different times to get some unique peach wood from Scott and had more trouble budding that wood than wood from my own orchard. Eventually, this summer, I got some of that wood to take, but the results still weren't as good as grafts from my own wood (i.e. not as high percentage of takes). Likewise, I sent some peach wood to Hman last spring and that wood was the only wood that didn't take for him. As I mentioned on the other thread, if you want wood from me when your rootstock throws suckers, we can try it through the mail.

I have very limited grafting experience. I did the V-shaped grafts. Once I fit the pieces together, I pushed a large pin thru them horizontally to 'lock' them in place. Then used grafting film wrapped tightly around the union. One thing you need to do is make sure you keep the rain water off the graft and make sure it doesn't get moved much. If you have a greenhouse, that would be a good safe place for it, or maybe under an eave. Rainwater can work its way under the tape and cause rot. And you don't want birds landing on it. If you can do the bud grafts, you'll certainly have more scion material to experiment with. I've never tried them myself. Seems to me they might be 'safer' and not dry out as readily as the v-graft might.