Have you read the FAQs on Spring and Summer Sowing? I can tell you what I do for summer sowing, but keep in mind that my garden is entirely in pots and that what works for me on a (somewhat) protected terrace might not work the same for others. I use deeper containers - 5-6" of soil - and I do cover them, loosely. Lots of air holes in the cover. Until they sprout, they're kept in a shady spot on the terrace where they get only a small dose of morning sun. Watching the watering is much more crucial than with WS; my containers usually get by with a good bottom watering every couple of days. Once they sprout, I keep the covers as long as I can, adding more vents; this is mainly as a protection from the birds up here - they'll cart off a seedling in no time. Once they get some size, I pot them into bigger containers - one or two gallon sizes - to grow on. They get mulched well, and they'll get water for as long as necessary before cold weather sets in. For overwintering, I just bunch them up closely together, as close to the building wall as possible (where it's a bit warmer). Done. I've had failures, but some of the seeds I've had luck summer sowing and getting to live for the next year are malva, hosta, biennial salvia, and dianthus. I've got some lilac seedlings this year (not SS, but really slow in germinating) - at least I hope that's what they are - that will get the same treatment. Hope my method proves true with them. PV

The last photo you posted of the growing plantlets looks fine to me. They look like they will survive without problem. Their leaves looks wavy due to the loss of water, but they look "shine" (so to speak) indicating they will survive this But here is my suggestion based on my experience when plants were accidentally let to dry out. Once by me, twice by other people I ask to take care of my plants. If what I see is correct, seems the stem of your nep looks strong, often well established plants with good roots will survive a bone dry pot. This is what I have done to salvage the plant. I cut the leaves that are dead, those that are still green I live alone. Cutting those that eventually die. I've seen that older leaves, the lower ones will likely die, but recent leaves will likely survive. But any pitcher or developing pitcher will die. Once the growing tip began to shoot out new leaves, you probably won't be seeing new pitchers, or the pitchers will developed malformed for some time until it recovers from the shock.

They will be under a 15' tamarack in the morning (airy foliage) and light shade/full sun on and off all day. Most of my yard is like this. I have Maltese Cross a few feet away and it does well. Alternatively, I'm thinking of all one colour of Penstemons. I want a bright flower with a long bloom time. I was imagining something a similar height to the hosta leaves. I thought of heucheras too but maybe looking for something a bit bolder. I also considered Jacob's Ladder but it doesn't bloom very long for me. The reason I didn't used to like hostas is because I don't like the look of anything with yellow or lime green leaves. Makes me think chlorosis. Green/blue/white and any combination are the ones I like best.

with a house plant.. NEVER confuse what it would do in its native habitat.. with what it can do.. indoors ... why is your house plant not outdoors for summer???? and if you want to try such.. NO DIRECT SUN EVER .... tuck it on the north side of a house... even full shade outdoors is significantly more intense than indoors.... it would need to be hardened off to light... before allowed any sun ... if ever .... you dont mention where you are.. so i dont know if it can ever be put in full sun ... FL is much different than say.. WI ... welcome to GW .... come back often ... ken