Hi... well, calamondin cannot live outdoors unless you're in the south (zone 8, 10, etc.) so you're going to have to keep it inside once there is any indication of frost overnight (needs to be inside well before frost, maybe once night temps go below 45-50 F). As far as dormancy then, all you need to do is water less often beginning now (if you haven't already done so), until early Nov... but please keep a very close eye on the tree as it's hard from here to judge whether you're doing it often enough or too often. Check for 'life' with a tiny scratch on the trunk (midway up) and if it's bright green all is fine, if not... too bad. It shouldn't drop leaves at all indoors. IF you do see signs of leaves curling, browning, etc. when you don't think they should, check very carefully for spider mites (tiny webs at branch and leaf angles), and use Safer's Insecticidal Soap Spray according to directions, weekly for a couple of weeks. Those develop if humidity is too low, so you want to keep the hum. up around the tree at all times, though of course not so much you induce mold, etc. And it's not 'evergreen' but semitropical... it's an orange, like they grow in Fla. and CA, just a mini version of them! At any time of year the tree should not be watered like a house plant, only when it needs it (that's the trick of course), when a lot of the soil is no longer damp, but when you do it, do it well so all roots get a drink. This post was edited by moochinka on Sun, Sep 28, 14 at 9:40

> Trees should only be watered when they need it. Do not water on a set schedule until you have determined the needs of your particular tree. Not every tree has the same requirements. You must identify what tree you have in order to meet its needs. > Be sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom and that water will drain freely from it. > For most outdoor trees, water when the surface of the potting mix looks like it is starting to get dry. > For indoor trees you can buy a moisture meter which, when inserted into the mix, will tell you when it is dry. Some use a chopstick or toothpick the same way. When it comes out dry, it is time to water. Some people stick a finger down in the mix an inch or so and check for moisture. > Some enthusiasts use the heft of the pot to determine when it is time to water. Lift the pot when it has just been watered thoroughly. Lift it again when it is in need of water. You will sense a definite difference in the weight. > Many factors influence the amount of water a tree will use. Some of these are: potting mixture (some elements hold more water than others), temperature and wind (the higher the temperature or stronger the wind, the more water is used), humidity (more humidity, less water is needed). > When you water, water thoroughly. Some recommend pouring a little water into the pot and letting it sit 15-20 minutes. Then water again and after another 15 minutes water until it drains from the bottom of the pot. This will allow the water to penetrate any dry pockets that have developed. If your trees are outside you can turn a hose with a slow stream on them. > Trees that are extremely root bound have special problems. The water will often just run down the inside of the pot never penetrating the root ball. > Newly pruned trees will use much less water than they did before pruning. They dont lose as much water through transpiration in the leaves

> Probably the most important rule about fertilizing is to never feed a tree that is under stress. The causes of stress are many, ranging from over watering or under watering to newly pruned roots or disease. > Once again, it is so very important to know what type of tree your bonsai is. Different types have specific needs as to the type and frequency of fertilization. > Many enthusiasts who have some experience think the safest method, with no fuss, is 4 month type of 14-14-14 time release fertilizer, such as Osmocote. This is incorporated right into the potting mix or sprinkled on the surface and worked down into the mix. > Most broadleaf trees and tropicals can be fed with any general houseplant or garden fertilizer. > Conifers, azaleas and certain others can benefit from a monthly application of an acidic fertilizer, such as MirAcid. > Some growers include hormones such as Superthrive in their regimen to stimulate root production. > Trees should only be fertilized when in periods of active growth. This is generally from midspring through early summer and from late summer to early fall. > If your summers are extremely hot and your trees are outdoors, do not fertilize until temperatures have moderated and growth has resumed. > Likewise, do not feed trees in winter when they are either dormant or growth has slowed down. > Some growers prefer organic fertilizers over chemicals. This is an ongoing debate and much too lengthy to go into detail here.

A bonsai is a stunted version of a plant that, through years of regular manipulations, looks exactly like an unmolested version, but in miniature, with the same proportions as a regular size specimen. A PT palm is not a bonsai candidate since one can't cause the foliage to be smaller by regular pruning. I haven't cut one before, so will leave that part of your question to others. They can thrive in a bonsai pot though, because the bulbous trunk stores moisture and they are designed to handle periods of drought and survive on very little water. They are usually planted with the trunk exposed, so it doesn't rot and it's considered part of why this kind of plant is interesting to look at. From the droopy angle of the foliage on yours, I think it would appreciate more light, gradually.