How to remove concrete fence posts?
axella
15 years ago
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brickeyee
15 years agobill_g_web
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Installing chain link fence posts. How to ensure they are plum?
Comments (4)we usually dig the hole to about 14-18", stick the pole in, half fill the hole, plumb the pole, then fill the hole the rest of the way. no need for forms, no need to brace. teh concrete will hold it up right unless you mix it too thin. you can TRY to get them all the same height, some have poor luck at it. one method is to get them all close, then use a straight string level to mark them all at the height of the lowest post and cut them off. the proper way to do it though is to dig the hole, put some crushed fill rock in the bottom, and adjust it until the pole is the proper height to keep the top rail level, this may or may not be the same length per pole. some holes you will dig down further, others you will backfill further. it is easier to jsut make sure that all poles are at least at your desired level height, and cut the longer ones down. and keep in mind, it is much easier to cut a couple inches off a pole that to add it on a pole!...See MoreHow much concrete per post?
Comments (1)The Home Centers have a pre-mix for setting posts - one bag per. Some you don't even add water, just let nature supply what is necessary. Personally, I'll vote against concrete for posts. In our locale, the frost line is 36" and post holes must be at least 42" by code. I fill the space around the post with pea gravel up to the last 6-8". That way, water drains away from my post and I don't get any frost heave. Where I live, fences built this way last longer and believe me once you tamp the pea gravel, the posts are sturdy....See Morecedar fence posts in concrete
Comments (15)I think you will say its awesome.. :-) I have to go down 42" to get below the frost line here in northern illinois.. the concrete would be poured around the sleeve first.. so once that sets up you can drop the post into the sleeve.. really I could fill have the sleeve with gravel after that point.. as the post only goes down that far to deal with the frost line.. so I could drop another 10in of gravel into the sleeve and drop the post on top of that.. there would still be 32" of post in the ground.. also whats the harm it in overflowing? seems to me that would take a lot of water.. it would have to soak down to 42inches of soil then fill all the back up assuming it doesn't just keep soaking down in the soil underneath the gravel.. wouldn't all that water just get soaked up by the concrete anyway or pour in through the gap between the post and the concrete at grade.. and the concrete would hold it against the post while the sleeve allows it to drain and or/dry....with the sleeve going all the way down at least the water would have somewhere easy to drain to and the ribs allow for air/drying.. it's not my idea.. these two companies came up with it.. this is the link to the company that sells this product.. http://www.postshieldusa.com/cs/ or this other one.. http://www.postprotector.com/.. i'm just not planning to buy their sleeves but use the pvc sleeves just laying around lowes instead.. i am looking for better alternatives besides dont use ceder and dont use concrete.. seems to me that if any alternative is going to end up with rot eventually why not just make it easier to repair.. i also like the idea of the copper because I intend to use copper on the post caps.. and if it works and looks cool that would be great.. but if that just marginally improves the longevity of the post but you still end up having it rot out and need to remove the concrete then why not make that part easier.. don't know.. these companies at least have me convinced but like they say a sucker is born every minute.. so maybe im that sucker.. I'm here hoping somebody can save me from a dumb idea but it at least seems logical to me.. the post prevents post to soil and post the cement contact which from what i hear are the two things that kill the post.....See MoreHowto remove the existing chain link fence post
Comments (4)The posts are weakest in withdrawal, so lift them up. If they are bedded in concrete you can lift the entire anchor. Drill a 1/2 inch hole through the post about 6 inches above the ground. Use a pair of 10 foot 2x4s as levers. Put a bolt though the 1st 2x4 about 2 feet from the end, than through the post, then through the second 2x4. Put a nut on just to hold everything in place (not even tight). Soak the ground ground the post with a garden hose for about 10 minutes, push the post from side to side (maybe add more water), then lift it out with the 2x4s. If you do not have enough lift, push the post sideways to keep it from slipping down and add some cinder blocks under the short end, then lift again. An old fashioned bumper jack and some chain used to be an easy way, but bumper jack seem to have gone the way of the dodo. They had a 36-48 inch lift range. Really nice for yanking out posts....See Moreannzgw
15 years agoaxella
15 years agoaxella
15 years agobrickeyee
15 years agoccecilm
15 years agoRyleylong_comcast_net
13 years agoddrury_hvacc_net
12 years agoRenee Texas
7 years agoCentral Valley Fence
7 years agoUser
7 years agoCentral Valley Fence
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agordmoch
6 years agoworthy
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoBruce in Northern Virginia
6 years agoVith
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agothompson1000
6 years agoChessie
5 years agoVith
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoBojan Stojanovski
3 years agoDNR
3 years agoBojan Stojanovski
3 years agoChessie
3 years ago
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