Your orchid is a Phalaenopsis and it looks to be doing wonderfully. In the last pic I can see 2 flower spikes starting (one to left above the first leaf node and one to the right just above the mix along the main 'stem'). I think most people would have put styrofoam peanuts in the bottom instead of gravel as the styro allows for more air flow. You should water when the plant dries out, the best way to tell is by lifting the pot and checking the weight (you'll get the 'feel' for it pretty quick) but some people put a wooden skewer in the pot at all times and when pulled out and it is dry, then water. I generally water my potted phals about every 7 days. If it were my phal, I would let things be and be careful with the watering, more phals die from too much water than from too little. Good luck and good job, Bob

I wouldn't cut them back. Here is where they're going to need all the built-in sun block for the wood they can retain. The foliage shades the wood from sun scald, which is very likely now that the softer growth due to young, pushed plants being grown in cooler weather, are going to get. Pinch off the flower buds. They're probably going to fry anyway. Leave all the leaves on the plant to shade and feed it. Expect some of the foliage to burn like you do the first few times you go out into the spring sun after being inside all winter, for the same reason. Maintain your watering schedule, don't feed and keep the flowers pinched. You want to feed them with their leaves, shade them with their leaves and leave them all the retained food possible to get them through the shock of sudden higher heat. Being in the ground will at least insulate their roots instead of cooking them as would have probably happened in the cans. Kim

(Apologies for the length of this and the fact it's off-topic) Bahia, Here's what the Annie's sign says: "Well, weve figured out how to propagate it, but its REALLY IFFY, takes a REALLY LONG TIME, & we only get a few!" For some reason I had assumed they meant propagation by cuttings--maybe not? But if seed packets are $3 with 10-20 seeds per packet (I don't know if that's the case) then than roughly 5% germination brings the seed price per seedling to closer to $5 maybe (neglecting those insignificant things such as labor...). Annie's says the plants were $50 last time they were offered, so perhaps 5% germination could make sense? The whole story behind germination actually sounds quite fascinating and has to do with ants. Here's a long description: http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/Seed "Myrmecochory is the dispersal of seeds by ants. Foraging ants disperse seeds which have appendages called elaiosomes (e.g. bloodroot, trilliums, Acacias, and many species of Proteaceae). Elaiosomes are soft, fleshy structures that contain nutrients for animals that eat them. The ants carry such seeds back to their nest, where the elaiosomes are eaten. The remainder of the seed, which is hard and inedible to the ants, then germinates either within the nest or at a removal site where the seed has been discarded by the ants. This dispersal relationship is an example of mutualism, since the plants depend upon the ants to disperse seeds, while the ants depend upon the plants seeds for food. As a result, a drop in numbers of one partner can reduce success of the other. In South Africa, the Argentine ant (Linepithema humile) has invaded and displaced native species of ants. Unlike the native ant species, Argentine ants do not collect the seeds of Mimetes cucullatus or eat the elaiosomes. In areas where these ants have invaded, the numbers of Mimetes seedlings have dropped." From what I understand the removal of the elaiosome increases the germination rate, and it's not clear to me whether there's a way to mimic it. Plantzafrica mentions that suprisingly smoke treatment does nothing. Actually Silverhill did have a different Mimetes species, M. hirtus, a couple months ago. Unfortunately I saw it described by Plantzafrica as a marsh plant which didn't seem too practical. However they did seem to like it: http://www.plantzafrica.com/frames/plantsfram.htm "Sima Eliovson, author of Proteas for pleasure, referred to Mimetes hirtus as 'the most magnificent species of Mimetes, the most spectacular genus of the protea family'. Nevertheless, the future of the species is uncertain as it is also one of the most geographically restricted mimetes, growing only in boggy areas mainly at low altitudes. As a consequence of the latter, it is often out-competed for its preferred habitat by housing developments. Fortunately it is one of the less troublesome to grow in cultivation-an aspect that may aid its chance of survival as a species." They also add: "M. hirtus is a relatively short-lived member of the protea family. It grows rapidly as a result, and may start flowering after only two years of growth. Plants reach their peak by ten years of age and die shortly thereafter, at a maximum age of about fifteen years." Two years is pretty fast for a protea. Again, sorry for the length and for going off topic.

The basil you buy from the market, along with all the Bonnie Plants from hardware stores are usually grown in pure peat moss and perlite, or a mix very high in peat. They are both sterile medium, no nutrients for the plant. Peat moss is very water retentive by itself, so it rot the roots over time killing the plant. This basically happen to all the store bought orchids too. These Bonnie plants while looking very green are on a lifeline by being fed with liquid fertilizer (high in nitrogen making the leaves dark green giving it the illusion of vitality). I only buy strawberries from Bonnie Plants now and I rinse out the whole root base with a hose and plant them in my own soil mix.