It isn't crazy, but I don't think it will work. :) It is possible the odor is in the leather and it just isn't going to come out. If it were mine, I would use a leather cleaner that has some sort of scent to it. Then I would buy several bars of soap with a strong scent - Irish Spring or some nice lavender soap - and unwrap the bars of soap, put them in the bag and leave them there for a few days or a week. Or sachets sold in places like Yankee Candle company - that would give you a choice of scents. The idea is to overwhelm the current scent with a new scent.

Since I last posted, I've narrowed a few things down. One of the rooms that was affected (there were 2 rooms total), has been fixed. The french drain I installed around the perimeter of the front of the house, where water was creeping under the foundation, seems to have fixed the issue in the larger room. There is now no more musty smell in there. However, the other room, which is a "closet" that backs up directly to a bathroom, still has the odor, which has actually gotten worse. The smell is definitely partially sweet, and partially musty. I've cut the drywall all the way around the room to see if there is any signs of water damage, dead animals, etc inside of the walls. Interestingly enough, the inside of the walls that butt up to other rooms, smell fine. The walls that have concrete on the other side, have the odor present (perimeter walls). The only two things I haven't addressed yet are the roof (I'd have to cut the ceiling open because there is no attic access at this point for how low the roof pitches). The other thing would be the foundation (slab). I have fairly expensive laminate flooring and underlayment in that room, which would have to be removed, and the floor would have to be inspected for dampness. However, given the circumstances, it's been narrowed down quite a bit. The room has 4 walls (2 butt up to exterior concrete and 2 others butt up to interior rooms), a standard hollow core wood door, a West-facing window, and a drywall knockdown ceiling. There is only two piece of furniture in the room, which are bookcases. One is MDF (still wrapped in plastic to hold it together before I bolt it in), and the other is pine wood, also wrapped in thin plastic to protect it. I've just put two large shop fans, a big air purifier, an ionizer, and ozone generator all in the room with a big bucket of damprid (although humidity levels in that room are only 49% in south florida, which is fairly average). I've also sprayed half a can of lysol air spray into the room. I'll let you guys know how that works out, and hopefully we can figure it out. and ESMAN - let me know your notes as well. Thanks.

Use Bounce dryer cloths. This is good for books too. Any kind of mold is gotten rid of too. Wrap the doll in Bounce and then in a towel. Leave for about 2 days to one week, checking every two days. It will work. I use it on my doll clothes, antique books and everything else.

The smell was especially pungent for years because of the enclosed Cabinet. Previously we had a cabinet. Prior-reno. Now we have drawers. Now, with drawers, we have the storage that drawers provide. And things are airy. Every time a drawer is opened, air is forced to circulate. The action of drawer-moving pushes air around. I like to put a piece of paper towel covering the powder residue on the top of the Ajax/Comet, just to help keep it from going air-borne. (I think the powder can also go airborne even when you open a cabinet door.) This fine powdered product has some solid bleach in its granules, so we still do have a form of bleach under the sink. But the big old bleach bottle is history. It's amazing how much bleach bottles leak out pungent odors. Vinegar doesn't do that. It was a leap of faith to go all-drawer under the sink. Nobody ever confirmed that having not one single cabinet was a fine way to go. Many people opined that my proposed compact plumbing was impossible or not up to code. (Not true). Millions of people can confirm that the first bend in a drain can be and often is a "Tight" bend. (e.g. under a bathtub, under a WC, it's a tight bend), and Master plumbers can explain why a tight bend is OK as the first bend under a drain. As luck would have it, Franke, Elkay, Dornbracht, Blanco and others all sell a remote pop-up button that you turn to open / close the strainer in the drain. It's a cable that moves a lever. One thing they don't advertise is that your kitchen sink drain pipe ends up going sideways instead of straight down. THAT was the big advantage I had been looking for and found in this Ready Made Product that saved time since I did not need to Reinvent a Tight Bend in 1.5" diameter pipe. Result achieved: under the sink drain, my drawer floor is intact; it was not cut out to leave a notch for the drain pipe, because the drain pipe is horizontal and goes backwards to the wall. The P trap is in the empty space behind the drawer, close to the wall. I notched out the drawer's back panel, not the drawer floor. -- My drawer support structure is Really Airy. I have cabinet sides holding drawer glides. And Not One More Panel Than That. Drawers need no cabinet floor under them. We figured we could safely forego the cabinet floor as long as cabinet sides remained parallel and square (not parallelogram-y). This is another subject that could take time to describe, on another day. Our lowest drawer we can open with a foot since there is no wood panel under it. Having no cabinet floor gives you an airy open space. When you remove all the drawers (an easy operation) you can work in that space with room to spare. ((P.S. I also removed the cabinet back panel; i can see the wall and the plumbing very easily.)) -- Combining several thought processes we were able to get the final result that achieved our goals, satisfied our desires, (and made us proud). One was the radical rethinking of product inventory; we got out of the chemical storage business and got into the nano mechanical stocking business: we buy and try out scotch brite type and mIcrofiber cleaning cloths and pads now, and find them all good. Secondly, we got the drain pipe horizontally aligned and notched the drawer back not bottom. A third thought was that drawers need side panels for the glides but not the other parts of a typical six sided cube that they sell at the "cube" store.