Christina, Different types of seeds are viable for different periods of time. Properly-dried broccoli and cauliflower seeds are generally highly viable for about 5 years whereas carrot seed is generally only highly viable for about three years. The two main enemies of seed viability when storing seeds are high humidity and high temperature. One way to store them is in freezers. They need to be inside airtight containers. All the major seed banks in the world store their seeds in cold storage units. You also can store seeds in foil pouches, paper packets, zip-lock bags (you can get tiny ones in the bead/craft aisle at wal-Mart), plastic lids with tight containers, etc. If not stored in a freezer, they should be stored in a room or closet where they are exposed to fairly constant temperatures. You don't want to store them in an uninsulated garage, garden shed, attic, etc. where they'll be very hot in summer and very cold in winter. If storing them inside, an interior closet or pantry is often a good storage area. If you have a dry cellar or root cellar, it would be an ideal place for seed storage but make sure the seeds are in airtight and roden-proof containers. You also can place packets of silica in your seed containers to absorb moisture and help protect the seeds from excess humidity. Seeds are not good today but then suddenly bad tomorrow. Instead, the seeds lose their vigor slowly over a period of time If your seeds are dried down to 8% moisture content and then sealed into airtight containers and stored in a freezer, they will maintain their normal or typical viability for ten times as long as seeds not stored long-term in a freezer. I don't keep my seeds in the freezer. I just keep them in paper envelopes placed inside zip-lock bags and stored in a plasic storage crate with a locking lid. Most of the time, the storage crate is in my root cellar with my stored veggies and home-preserved food. If you don't have room in the freezer or don't want to store your seeds there, a refrigerator works too. When removing seeds from a freezer or refrigerator so that you can open the container and use some of them, first remove the container from cold storage and let it sit all day long or overnight so the seeds can completely reach room termperature before you open the airtight seed packet. This lessens the likelihood that moisture will condense on the seeds as they thaw which can cause them to germinate prematurely. I generally try to use seeds before they are six years old or older but sometimes you can get seeds that are 6-10 years old to germinate fairly easily, and real seed pros can often germinate older ones. I don't think I've ever tried to germinate seeds older than 8 or 10 years in age. One thing you need to consider with seed packets is that they have to meet federal germination standards because every seed likely will not germinate. The germination rate is expressed as a percentage and varies from variety to variety. For example, the minimal federal germination rate for commercially-sold carrot seed is 55%, so you're unlikely to get 1500 carrots even if you plant 1500 seeds. The worst germination you can expect from fresh seed packed for the current year's use is, therefore, 55% for carrots, although often you'll find a particular batch of seeds has a much higher germinationrate than that---it is just the 55% is the minimum allowed. For cucumbers, the Federal Germination Standard for seed sold commercially is 80%. When planting, you can use the Fenderal Germination Standard for any given variety as an aid in figuring out how many seeds to plant in order to get X number of plants. You also can choose smaller packets of seed. One retailer who specializes in smaller quantities of seed is Pinetree Garden Seeds (www.superseeds.com) and some other seed companies sell 'mini' or 'sampler' packs that contain smaller quantities of seeds. If you collect and save your own seed from open-pollinated varieties, the most important thing is to make sure it has reached the proper degree of dryness before storing it. Otherwise you may end up with moldy, ruint seed. Dawn

I don't need it....nothing....don't need anything more.... BUT....today I went to the $ store because I needed several gift bags....and while I was there...I just had to walk around...and bought 3 glass pinch bowls...I was getting along just fine with custard cups...but... AND I got a new dishwasher last week...but that was because my 22 year old trusty Maytag died. I know better then to buy one of the newer Maytags (the ex CEO was a very good friend and next door neighbor and when he made all those trips to China and Japan, I figured it out!).. Anyhow I got a Jenn Aire....I know they are in the business of down draft vent systems....but it's a hotsy totsy model, likely last years but I made the dealer an offer...prepared to up it....and he said OK. Surprise! But its' not "fun" in the way that a new stock pot would be...I still am trying to figure out the best way to load the thing! Also got 2 new YeehaH stoves for the church...I bucked the people who said why do we need to spend that for stoves.....and I splained why!! Because I cook on them and you don't! I think I need new potholders.....mine are beyond awful...and people give me oven mits and I feel clumsy using them, so I save them for the grill. I Have a fairly nice assortment of Halloween, Christmas, Valentine's day potholders...but I need some simple every day ones that don't have burned corners and the stuffing hanging out. Linda C

I would not do plaster again. It was so mottled, plus it cracked, that I tore it out after 2 yrs. I have brand new 1 day old pebble sheen and so far, I LOVE it. I would not use a busy mosaic tile. I replaced mine with simple pool blue midcentury square tiles. I would not rush the design as stated above. I had a highly qualified landscape architect help me with the remodel and it looks fabulous (I think). I lengthened my pool to a 60 ft. long lap pool. I am glad that I paid the extra $ for this.

There are so many kind people on this forum. Everyone of you are special, I mean that sincerely! I believe being encouraging, while also being candid is what I needed, thanks! Alana, I need to learn more about the gallicas, damasks and albas. I do love my Bourbons and hybrid perpetuals. I believe Hybrid Musk is a class of roses that is recommended for this area. I don’t currently have any, but have ordered Lavender Lassie and Felicia, anxious to see what they do. Diane, you’ve made me realize something that could be part of the problem. I have thought that burying the graft isn’t necessary here, but I believe it is something I need to do. I might do well to try some of the varieties you’ve mentioned, I definitely admire yours. I do realize our conditions are different though. Seil, interesting that you commented “I always envy your beautiful roses and photos and wish mine looked so lovely!” Just a couple of days ago, I was thinking the same of yours! And I think it was you who has commented before that we show our best on here, which is probably true for the most part. I do always enjoy your beautiful pictures and look forward to them. I do enjoy my roses tremendously. Oklahoma does present many challenges, I don’t want to make those challenges any more difficult by being lax in some areas, which sometimes I think I have a tendency to be.