If I may: The knobs come off for one of several reasons. #1-The set screws are simply loose, however this usually doesn't cause the knob to "fall" off, it will simply turn in your hand and not open the latch. If you kept turning in one direction it would come off all the way. If this is your symptom look around the "shoulder" of the knob/lever for some recessed flat head or allen head (baldwin)screws. Unscrew the knob just enough to see how the square bar is oriented. Those screws need to tighten down on the flat surface of that bar (preferably facing down, although that is not possible sometimes), so once you see that orientation and know where the screws need to be tightened down at (ie-Baldwin brand would be tightened down at the 4:30(ish) and 7:30(ish) position) you screw the knob up until its tight against the plate, then back it off about a turn. If it is too tight against the rosette/interior trim plate, the latch will not spring back out on its on, and you will have to physically turn the knob so the latch will come out. Sometimes there is not a happy medium between too tight and too loose. There are mylar and brass washers available to take out the slack. #2- Now if those screws are tight and it still doesn't stay on, your looking at spindle (that square bar that goes into the knob) wear or wear inside the knob itself. The screws threads inside the knob do wear out and no amount of set screw tightening will make it hold. At that point you can a new knob, from several places. The cheapest knob sets are only around $5-10 from many home stores/hardware stores/locksmith companies. They look like the old style glass knobs, but are obviously low quality. I have never been real thrilled with them, but it is the most affordable solution. I prefer the real glass antique stuff, and I am not alone. We get calls from all over the country (via our ebay store and website) looking for antique glass knobs. If you unscrew the knob and that square shaft is rounded where the screws tighten down at, then you have a couple of options. Replace that spindle (they are also available, but there are many different variations) or if it seems long enough you can loosen the screws on the other side and screw /unscrew it several threads and re-tighten, then the other side can be tightened down at a different spot on that bar. Washers may be needed as well. If the inside threads of the knob is worn out you are going to need a new knob. If its your front door lock and it has the thumb trim on the outside (antique) you can most likely use those same "cheap" knobs (again, I only suggest these as they are the easiest to find) and just use one of the knobs. The only trouble you would run into is if the shoulder of the replacement knob does not seat in the recess of the interior trim. The spindles on front door locks (with a thumbtrim on the outside) are different than the ones on bathrooms, interior rooms. It is a half spindle and works differently than the other doors with just knobs/levers on each side. They are hard to find/replace sometimes, and I suggest contacting the closest trusted locksmith company for service. Ask your family/friends/neighbors for locksmith reference, NEVER rely on phone book ads. There are too many "scammer" companies listing ads nowadays, and they are guilty of shoddy work and overcharging customers. Make sure and only deal with someone who has done satisfactory work for one of your colleagues. I am new here, so I don't know how the forum works as far as posting pics, but I can get some links up later of the positions of those screws, etc. We do plenty of photography work in relation to our industry. Gotta run to a christmas party now though! I will post them tommorrow assuming its calm enough ;-)

Although you didn't ask for this advice, I have to second Jenny "with no taste's" comments. I think the wall color detracts from the clean contrasts in your slipcovers. The picture posted by Jenny seems to have a cream wall behind a blue/white chair, but it doesn't look like the wall was painted with that chair in mind. If this were my room I'd paint the walls white. The obvious accent color is yellow but there is no reason you couldn't choose something out of one of the prints instead. I think your picture mats are neutral and would probably look fine with any new wall color. But you certainly want to know which wall color you are using before doing anything with the mirror or lamps. I think I might like the two lamps with the white shades, but I can't see them because they are too low. The round table is too low but since the legs are not really visible, can you put something under them to bring the table up a few inches? Once you are committed to your table heights, you can raise and lower your current lamps using stacks of books, till you see what height lamp works best. Of the new lamps you are considering, I'd definitely stick with the clear glass. The clear glass will add to the airy, clean, crisp look and it will help reflect light.

She never did explain how to use any color wheel to identify colors that go together. You have to read the words on each color wheel and follow its direction. There are arrows and lines connecting the colors that go together. Look at the example above and you'll see the arrows and lines in a white circle in the middle of the wheel with words that identify the relationship between the connected colors as split, triad, complementary, etc. The color wheels with a greater number of hues/spokes than 10 or 12 may have that instruction spelled out within each spoke or section. Encycolorpedia has different information than a color wheel. It delivers much more complex information - very detailed data about the color you're looking up. Encycolorpedia deals with color order and where a specific color is located within in various color models/spaces and order systems. This kind of color data is useful if you understand all the different color models/spaces and order systems and how each of them differ from one another. To begin understanding how color relationships work, I'd suggest choosing a color wheel with 12 hues/spokes, read the directions, and get familiar with how it works to show color relationships like complementary, split, triad, etc. Encycolorpedia delivers advanced information that makes sense once you learn about the different color models/spaces and order systems.

I can squeeze in a lot of drawers because I use frameless (IKEA) case and custom sized the drawer's heights. Here's pic of my 18" cab with 6 drawers including toekick. Drawer 1- 4" spice with insert. Drawer 2- silverware daily You can see I'm starting the measurements for the custom divider. Drawer 3 - potholders Drawer 4 - haven't decided yet based on utility. I may need two spice drawers. Drawer 5 - box of the sterling silver toekick - extra spice bags the 18" cab to the right will have the same setup with knives at top then small utensils then small cutting boards / trivets. The only cabinet with less than min 5 drawers is the bake cab. 2 drawers and toe kick drawer. It's only 23" high. I have my goodwill table that I cut down into a rollout. Still need stripping, paint and a marble top.