Fixing the running toilet fixed the usage problem and the softener appears to be functioning perfect, which I guess begs the question, is it OK to leave the check valve in? It does not appear to be restricting flow in any way (valve shows maximum SFR to date of 13.9 gpm) and I don't think it is creating any back pressure. Wouldn't the check valve actually prevent any back pressure from reaching the valve and resin tank and in turn protect the resin tank and valve? Say for instance that the expansion tank was malfunctioning for whatever reason, and the water heater kicked on and created a brief expansion that drove the psi up to say 150 psi and that back pressure pulse was pushed back to the check valve since the expansion tank didn't work correctly. Wouldn't the check valve slam shut and prevent this back pressure from reaching the resin tank and valve? If the normal line pressure on either side of the check valve is the ambient 60-70 psi of the system under normal conditions and a back pressure pulse of 150 psi comes from the water heater side of the installation, isn't that precisely the set of conditions that would cause the check valve to close and keep the pulse on the water heater side of the system? I realize that with check valve in place and the theoretical malfunctioning of the expansion tank, the pressure pulse will seek some method of escaping which could cause damage somewhere in the house like a faucet or toilet, but at least it will not have blown the resin tank or destroyed the control valve, correct? I hope this rationalization makes sense, but I'm not sure that I have done a very good job of positing my questions or explaining the scenarios. Oh well. Take a swing at it if anyone feels like it. I am interested to hear some opinions on this one. I'm thinking more potential bad will come from disassembling a functioning, dripless install than from keeping the check valve in place. Thanks. Drew

Shelf life on a hot water heater is 15-20 years so yours has had a good life It would be cost effective to replace it. That said it sounds like you may have sediment in your lines that is slowing things down. I would venture to guess the bathroom with the most hot water is/was the one least used. So that would lead I am sure to how to fix it and that would depend on many thing like the age of your plumbing and what kind of pipes they are. There are a few things you might be able to have a plumber do but not many so your water lines may need replaced also. If you got a home owners warranty when you bought your home it may cover both the tank and any water line replacement Good luck Amy

I am also looking into them. Here is a nice link to another HVAC/plumbing forum. In the thread many other links are shown: http://www.hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=131124&highlight=hpwh I have settled on http://www.nyletherm.com/waterheating.htm They have refurbished systems for $700 - best deal around.

Plumbed incorrectly. Wired incorrectly Valve closed