Mocketts/Pop-up Outlets - Hard to Clean Around?
kmmartini
13 years ago
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contemporganic
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Pop up pond & Petsmart waterlily disaster!!!
Comments (23)seedsvr - the Pondmaster 190gph pump/filter/filters pads and sponges, and bell fountain kit cost about $50 to $60 (today). Don't remember what it cost in 2002/2003 when I bought that one. All plants are in small pots except the floaters. No soil, only aquarium gravel. I am in MD and I throw my WH on the compost pile at the end of the season where it continues to bloom and then dies either from drying out or if cold weather comes. I haven't had any WH for 3 or so years now. I'd actually like to get some more but I refuse to pay the high prices people ask for that weed. I have two other ponds now and the Pop-up sits in my garage as I don't feel like fooling with it (or my ponds for that matter:-) It was fun and I enjoyed it while I had it up and running for two seasons. I'd get a big tub if I had it to do over again (like suggested by another poster). I've never seen a clear pop-up before. When they first came out they were copper or dark like mine. Clear I would think would encourage algae with the light which means you probably won't see the plant roots or fish for long unfortunately....See Morehelp!! must order now!! pop up electric outlet
Comments (9)Igloo, It appears that the PUFP-CT-BK is a fully Code-compliant way to put a required receptacle into a countertop. Even so, it has apparently been rejected by at least one inspector (who used reasoning that didn't follow the Code). When you do something that's out of the ordinary, it's never a complete slam-dunk that the building department won't balk at it, even it any reasonable person can see that it's Code-compliant. The Mockett "grommet" doesn't meet Code for several reasons. So one would expect that one's chances with the PUFP-CT-BK are better than with the Mockett. I don't think that adjusting the depth of the shelf would make any difference, at least not at the 18" point. The 18" refers to the distance from the sink to the corner behind it. In your case, the question is whether the inspector will accept the position that the step up is the "wall" behind the sink (in which case the magic distance is 12", because the distances are 18" to a corner or 12" to a parallel wall). If it's a "wall," then the next question is whether the section behind the step is a "counter" or a "shelf." There is no requirement for outlets on shelves, but there is for counters. And I know of no formal definitions of the two, so it's totally the inspector's judgment call as to what you have there. Have you talked with your building department about this? And do you currently have a working relationship with them? In my opinion, the thing to do, if you know them well enough to have a frank conversation with them, is to present them with the problem, say "this is the best solution that we've been able to come up with", and see if they're OK with that. If you're not comfortable with that, I'd suggest going with the PUFP-CT-BK in back corner (or close to it), and take the position (nicely) that what you have is completely Code-compliant if they question it. . To address this from a slightly different place, I don't see any Code requirement for an outlet in your "step", a few inches behind the sink. The Code clearly doesn't require that (who told you that it does?). The only question I see is whether you need an outlet in the corner. I think you mentioned that you actually want one there, because there is something you want to plug in there? Or was it a rationalization of, "Well, if I really have to put one there, I guess it's OK because I could plug the X in there."? If you really want an outlet there, I think you're in pretty good shape. Also, you might want to poke around the Lew Electric web site. I believe they have some "floor pocket" type receptacles that sit below the surface, and just the cord comes up through a notch in the cover. That could be really slick in your setup. (You've have to verify that the particular unit would be Code-compliant. The key issue here is that the outlet not be sitting flat with its face pointing up, because the Code doesn't allow that on counters (but does on floors).)...See Morekitchen island design - drawer microwave and pop-up mixer stand?
Comments (16)Thanks for all the feedback and the tips for searching the site. After reading everyone's comments, I'm thinking that the drawer MW is the way to go, probably purchased from ebay to get a good deal. I saw a mixer lift at a local home improvement store today, and I hated it! It was hard to reach the release and I think I'd have hit myself in the face with it as it popped up if it'd had a mixer sitting on it, so I think I'll just go with a pull out shelf for the mixer and lift it onto the counter myself. I'd probably use it on the counter, anyway, so that there wouldn't be flour and batter splatter inside the cabinet and so we wouldn't break the open cabinet door while using the lift....See Morehidden flip-out electrical outlet meet code for around sink-wall?
Comments (6)Yes, I'll definitely check w/ my town's code. Just planning ahead... Another idea, based on histokitch's kitchen sill (see picture below): - putting sillite on the window sill: See how the window sill is almost flushed w/ the countertop? I could put the sillite there, yes? I like to have a flat countertop w/out any edges to go around. I'm getting stainless steel countertop integrated with a stainless sink, so it's just 1 piece w/ no edges (oooh, I couldn't stand my drop-in sink in my previous home, couldn't get the edges/rim clean enough). LOVE your kitchen! (I'm also having 30" countertops.) Sillite: Kinda like jsweenc's kitchen, except of standing vertical, the outlets would be laying down flat. Scroll 2/3 down to see the picture (after the 2 pictures of the island sillites) (I can't post the picture for some reason.) Here is a link that might be useful: jsweenc's kitchen w/ sillites...See Morekmmartini
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