reguardless of what type of bulb you put into the recessed lights, you should buy only Insulation Contact Air Tight (ICAT) recessed lights. these cans have no holes in the housing to allow attic air & insulation particles into the house. IC lights have these holes in the housing. As the air moves through the insulation surrounding an IC can, it lowers the efficiency of the insulation. one IC light = 1 sq ft of uninsulated attic due to the air movement. purchase price by case of ICAT is not much more than IC. but to retrofit to AT with trim kits and inserts will cost about $15 per light. the stickers inside the recessed lights can be decieving. halo for instance has a red sticker that says in big letters AIR TIGHT..in smaller letters ..when used with the following inserts/trims. a true halo ICAT light has an orange air tight sticker inside the can. shop wisely, so that you don't add to heating/cooling load of house & compromise both insulation & indoor air quality. best of luck

It is usually necessary to cut out a square of ceiling larger than the fixture, remove the fixture and housing, install a new fixture and then patch the hole. Once, on some 6" fixtures I was able to remove the interior trim and replace it with a "cross blade" trim made for the original housing. Using frosted PAR 30 lamps also helped.

How funny. I could have written this. Same screw up except my vinyl bead runs as you described but on 24 inch centers over 1000 sq ft of a full wrap around porch. Unfortunately I have a rule that nothing gets redone before I complete some yet executed phases like the screen porch, finished basement, etc etc. so I am stuck looking at it for now and explaining it to everyone who comes to see the house. You will want to rehang the short way. By going the long way you can't allow for the vinyl thermal expansion and contraction which contributes to your (& my!) sag. It gets very hot between you dark shingles and that porch ceiling. You may want to consider nailing up a radiant barrier before the plywood goes up and adding some venting. Or consider since you're nailing up plywood just get the painted beadboard plywood and be done with the vinyl. You can skip the venting in that case. As to the recessed lights, I have them as well (wired with romex which will be fine as it is protected under the roof) I centered mine between my posts which are about 8 feet apart. The result is nice "pools of light" at night. I would suggest you include the one in the center and then use lower wattage bulbs in the coach light as accents. That's what I did.

Davidtay and Andrew, Still trying to get my head around these lighting controls. I think the Lutron RadioRA2 is what we prefer. Please help me understand what we would need to buy for each main room (let us assume there is at least a 3 way switch in each room and some have 4 way). In other words, our open concept house will have at least 2 spots in each room where lights can be turned on and off. Presently, the plan was to have multiple switches in each location (which I hate do to confusion of which switch operates which circuit). So, with the above preamble, what do I need to buy for say one room with a 3 way switch (two locations at different entries where lights can be controlled)? In that room let us assume there are 3 circuits needing to be controlled (say dining room chandy, mood lights and say pot lights all on a different circuit and all we desire the control to dim as needed). If you could help me understand what I need to buy for one room with the Lutron RadioRA2 scene control, I could then figure out what I would need to buy to have similar scene controls in all the main rooms (kitchen, great room, dining room and media room). Any general guidance on pricing of necessary products for the above scenarios? If these scene controls are controlled wirelessly, what if any in wall wiring do we need to ensure is in place before closing the walls? Do we need to hire a contractor to commission these scene controls or can they be DIY installed (DH is handy/knowledgeable enough to do some of our wiring). Do the scene controls in a room eliminate the need to have the multiple groups of light switches (or are they in addition to the multiple switches)? In other words, if we have 3 circuits needing to be controlled in a room, do we have one Lutron scene control beside a 3 gang regular light switch (room for 4 light boxes)? Sorry for all the questions -- even if you can answer some of them I would be very grateful. Also, if you can point me in the direction of where we can learn the nitty gritty of what needs to be bought and how to install these scene controls that would be very helpful. We do not have the budget to hire out the whole install and design so have to find a way to learn what needs to be done and how to do it. Carol Here is a link that might be useful: Lutron scene control we prefer