It's much easier than you might think. The trick is that your drawer boxes have to have a front lip to which you attach the undermount part. The drawer fronts don't need to be changed at all -- unless you're making them inset. So, you'll probably have to pick up new drawer boxes. But this is an opportunity to make stupid, reach-in base cabinets into drawer cabinets. Which I've done now several times. I have two more trash pull-outs to make out of full-height base cabinets. Yeah!

I ordered half inch overlay with the hinges. So, I guess my response is essentially another bump. Not so many fans of partial overlay on here.

LOL Francy, "It never ever occured to me...that I would hire someone who would lie abou his skill" etc. Gad that killed me...after three tile guys, two GCs, redoing the floors twice, the stairs twice...oh and the three painters...It sure as heck occurs to me now LOL (You too I bet!) I have hidden hinges on my inset doors. The reason being, I live in an earthquake zone, and I'm on pilings verses a foundation. My house moves like Michael Jackson once did :oP Insets aren't used as much here because of the earth quake and frost heave movement of our ground. So where you live should come into the factoring at some point (and might be why the cabinet maker hasn't done many with exposed hinges?) I do however find it very frustrating when a KD inserts their own opinions into the mix, either with or without knowledge. FOr instance, one KD here told me that inset cabinets don't work in Alaska and that I'd hate them so because she didn't want to see me back complaining, she wouldn't price them for me (and priced a more expensive european brand instead). She was fortunate I guess...since she didn't have to see me again after that :OP Then I went to the top place in town and chatted with them about it. The KD (very experienced, highly awarded) laughed and said "With adjustable hinges it's no biggie...I do them quite often". And she was right...it's not hard to adjust the hidden hinges at all. I also have an exposed hinge at the end of the island because the space isn't deep enough for any other type of hinge. I ordered it in pewter and the balance of my knobs, handles, squirrels are in antique pewter. You really don't notice the difference in the colors (there is a little) because there is so little exposed. But with some of the fancier hinges (ie that H hinge up above) you might notice it more because they're more of a feature of the design astetic. Had I been making an attempt at a period look, I'd have gone with exposed hinges, and I think I probably would on white cabs as well, just because I love the look of a Chistopher Peacock kitchen. But of course, that kitchen in my dreams has silver...real silver...knobs and hinges...and the maid of my dreams says she won't clean them :o(

Hi All interested. I'd like to address a few comments. My name is Birdie Miller, I have an account here at Houzz. I design and build custom kitchens, cabinets, furniture and millwork, since 1972. I invented the EuroButt II faux butt hinge in 1990 and brought it to the market in 1996. Because the European concealed hinge is such a GREAT hinge, designers have had to 'do-away' with the functional design element of the traditional butt hinge, mostly because cabinet makers don't want to use the butt hinge, "It is a pain in the butt to use it". It isn't because they don't want to see it, they just don't want to use it. Before 1980 all doors were hinged with some sort of knuckle hinge, the 80's were the period that contemporary design in the USA took off, along with the construction technique of frameless cases and European hardware. After a decade of getting used the European hardware and case building techniques most cabinet makers didn't want to go back to butt hinges and face frame cabinets. I know there are plenty of sources for face frame cabinets and no mortise butt hinges (NOW). In the 1990s there weren't. After the 1988 stock market crash, our industry took a 'HIT'. When it came back in 1992, 95% of the architects and designers I worked with went back to traditional design... I have my theory why that happened! Back to the subject. Using the concealed hinge is a smart way to go, for the cabinetmaker and the customer, but you loose the design element of traditional design. I ran into the problem in 1990 when my designers were now calling for the butt hinge. With a little work, I said, ''why can't I just do this''.... Fake the butt hinge and let the concealed hinge do all the work!!! With that concept, I invented the EuroButt II faux butt hinge. You get the best of 2 worlds, The charm of traditional design and the advantages of the high tech concealed hinge. That is why you would use the EuroButt II faux but hinge... Self close, Soft close, Adjustments and Clip on and off. I took a lot of care to design a fake hinges that looked absolutely REAL. I show the EuroButt II at my Houzz listing, with a link to the EuroButt II website address. If you have any questions let me know. Take care and good luck with your projects.