Thanks for the feedback, glad to hear they don't get too hot. Badge gal and A2gemini, that seems like a great solution. Since my oven will not be near my range and prep area (not far, but not right there) I am trying to find things other than pots, pans, boards etc. I want a cabinet just like you posted, but above the range hood I'm using to replace the OTR MW! I'm probably way more excited to get a hood, even the small awning style one, than I should be, but gotta live for the little things, right? Weedmeister, I think I'd be a little paranoid about cleaner fumes, I'm just overly afraid of chemicals and fumes causing issues for some reason. Might be a great solution for the wraps, Tupperware, and stuff, it would be in an area convenient for that. It also occurred to me that some deep shelves below might be a good place to stash the Kitchen Aid mixer, and maybe let the ice cream maker live in there instead of the basement. Time for another round of measurements, then maybe I'll have a revised layout to post!

When I read your written description, it seemed like the 30" would get you extra storage cabs which was a concern of yours, but after seeing the visual, you will have plenty of other cabs and counter space. The 36" wide is so nice to use (ours is actually 37.5" wide). There is more room between the burners and ours actually has a griddle as well. Our old stove used to feel crowded up top. Our range has an oven and another next to it that is much smaller that is for cookie sheets. The main oven in our range is a little small, so we got a separate wall oven. This way, with a small item, we use the small oven. Luckily that was in our plan before we discovered our problems hooking up to propane (not approved yet or in the near future) so we are very grateful to have the second oven to use. Having a second separate unit is great because if you ever have one fail, you are not stuck. Of course, you can do a 36" cooktop with separate 30" oven below. That is one way to get duel fuel, if applicable, and not have too large an oven for when you cook smaller things. I'd skip the potfller, because that only helps at the fill stage and the more important stage is when it has boiling water and another pound added to it (the pasta itself) and it needs draining. I'd make sure your prep faucet is tall enough for your pasta pot or there was a pull down/pull out feature to the faucet. I'd also opt for a good size prep sink because you have counterspace to spare. You want it large enough to hold your largest colander. I sometimes see very small ones and wonder how useful they are. It would be great to put the filtered drinking water faucet by the prep sink since that is closest to the seating (if you don't have drinking water from your fridge). I'd also move the drainboard on the cleanup sink to the other side so that the prep side is on the range side if you ever have large batches of produce that can be put there. BTW - our new (vintage) sink has an attached drainboard and so we don't use the basket type dish drainer you are showing in your layout any longer. I love how it looks neater and there used to be some stuff that went in the drying rack and never seemed to come out. I lay any wet stuff on the drainboard itself and put it away soon after. Our new dw cleans better, so we don't have quite as much to wash by hand. YMMV

This is what makes MUA such "fun." If the air is conditioned, it can be introduced distant from the kitchen or at least distant from the hood and have the best chance of not disrupting the rising effluent plume. If the air is unconditioned and cold, then close proximity is called for (although it is unlikely to be so close as to not chill-out the cook. This could have long-term ramifications. :) Insertion under the range is a good approximation of proximate, but might have these deficiencies: o Some ranges may not like this. Someone on this forum in the last year, I think, pointed out that high-end Brand X gas range instructions prohibited it. I don't recall who X was. I do not know what the basis of the manufacturer's objection was. o For cooktops, cabinets will be in the way. A grill at the feet may be used instead of a cabinet base, and for peninsulas and islands, another on the other side is plausible. Keep in mind that the grill will have to have a rather strong air velocity unless the grill is as large as the hood. Alternatively from floor insertion, a slotted counter top design around the cooktop would provide an ideal air feed location, but inadequate area for the flow rate. Also, it could be an opportunity for difficult cleaning. Pop-up vent systems run backwards come to mind. The air flow onto the cooktop could be disruptive to the flame pattern, so probably should be aimed outward. Flow would likely be too low without a very large pop-up. kas

Ah! you missed one of the versions of a comment I have added to quite a few threads. Here it is again. Because we do not get to close off parts of the hood not receiving cooking plume impact, all of the hood has to flow the amount needed at the most stressing part of the effluent plume to be contained at the hood baffle space. How much do we need? Well the actual issue is what velocity of air has to be pulled past the baffles to ensure that the rising plume is pulled into the baffles and contained, versus reflecting off of the baffles and potentially curling back into the room, thereby escaping the capture area and hence removal by the hood. Hot cooking plumes over gas burners can rise at velocities of 1.2 m/s, or almost 4 ft/s. The baffle gap is roughly half the baffle assembly area, so to entrain the plume flow, it seems that some portion of 4 ft/s or 4 x 60 CFM per sq. ft. of baffle area is needed for good containment. Actually, there is usually space under the baffles larger than the baffles proper, so adequate flow is needed all across the hood capture aperture. I believe that I have about 900 actual CFM at home, pulled through a 10 sq. ft. Wolf Pro Island hood. This is equivalent to 90 ft/s. This works over induction hobs, including searing and wok cooking with a 3500W Cooktek wok hob. As it happens, Greenheck also looked into the requirements for CFM, perhaps like me doubting that 100 CFM per ft. of hood edge had a mathematical connection to the process of cooking plume containment. They have published a range of values, and I have taken the liberty of copying their relevant table below. So take your hood area, multiply by some value you believe in for actual needed flow, then multiply by another factor to account for blower ratings not actually applying to the conditions in which they are used. (Another topic written about here more than a few times.) http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf No one has complained here that aiming for 90 CFM/sq. ft. of hood aperture allowed smoke and steam to escape into the kitchen, so long as the hood overlapped the cooking area by enough to capture the expanding plumes.