Hey Mongoct, The left does overlap 2", it shoots around the corner about 1/4", you just can't see it from that angle. I usually won't have them that close to the corner but sometimes the framing absolutely dictates it. The kerdi does not drop 2" below the screws. I just don't do that, dunno why. Perhaps I should start. You have chosen the photo without the flaps done yet - they actually kick back a bit to cover those corners, just barely though. It is not a 2" overlap there in the corners. Everything around it is a 2" overlap. It is the same concept as an inside corner. There may be a 'pinhole', which is not really a 'hole', just a spot that doesn't overlap 2", doesn't mean it isn't waterproof. That is exactly how they did it at Schluter and that's how I do it. I will sometimes place extra squares there to cover those corners, just depends on how I feel about it. If they can waterproof a cardboard box in that manner I feel confident using it in a shower. I know you're not trying to pick on me :-), like you said there are several different ways to do it. I don't mean to sound defensive, these methods are simply how I do it. Everyone has their own way.

Also, because of the extreme sizing that usually comes with slate, I would strongly recommend that you don't use spacers. Instead, lay a few of the tiles out dry with the 3/16" grout joints, and then find out what your coursing is (a course is the dimension of one tile plus one grout joint). Figure out where you want to start your layout from, snap two square lines from that point (if you need help with this, let me know, and I'll explain it), and then grid the room out in 2 tile by 2 tile boxes. That way, no matter HOW much the size varies, the tiles will remain straight.

Joe, do you need a tub? Or would a walk-in or roll-in shower work best? I'm in agreement with wisco-girl. I just did a shower for an MS customer about 3 months ago. A couple of items while I await your response, and these are geared towards a fully accessible roll-in shower: 1) Use a movable seat instead of a built-in bench inside the shower. 2) Grab bar guidance can be found on ADA sites. You can shuffle the locations slightly depending on your shower configuration and your wife's abilities, but their recommended locations are pretty good. 3) For the shower head, have a hand-held unit on a bar. Most bars are not certified for grab bar use, but there are units that are. I used an Alsons ADA handheld. Looks nice, and the vertical bar is an actual grab bar and the height adjustment is an easily manipulated lever. Use the longest hose you can find. 4) If the grab bars will not be screwed directly into a wall stud or solid 2-by blocking installed between the studs, I prefer to use "Wing-It" anchors. I can do chin-ups on those things. Kerdi? From the studs to tile, you're looking at: a) drywall or cement board, the seams between panels do not have to be thinsetted or taped. I personally prefer cement board (wonderboard or durock) but you can use regular old drywall. If using drywall I recommend 5/8" drywall. b) thinset and Kerdi over the drywall or cement board c) thinset and tile over the Kerdi d) grout With accessible showers, I recommend a deck mud base versus the Kerdi foam trays. You can use the foam tray, I simply find deck mud easier to shape to the shower sizes that I build. If a deck mud base, I staple plastic sheeting to the floor. Then set expanded metal lathe over the plastic and tack it in place, just enough so it doesn't flop around. Pack deck mud and set the drain, with the proper slope (1/4" per foot usually) from the walls to the drain. Once the deck mud has cured, Kerdi over it, then tile. If using a Kerdi Foam tray, thinset the tray to the floor, then kerdi over the tray. Easy. Here's a Kerdi thread from a few years ago. This is Kerdi over cement board on the walls, and Kerdi over sloped deck mud on the floor. Might not be the same methods you chose to use, but it shows a few techniques. Lastly, the curb. you need 2" of vertical drop from the top of the curb to the shower drain. Floor pitch needs to be between 1/4" per foot and 1/2" per foot. You can usually get an inch or so simply from the sloped shower floor. So you may still need an inch or so of elevation at the shower threshold. You can do a standard curb with square edges, or a roll-over hump. The hump is sort of like a speedbump. An inch or so of vertical over several inches of horizontal, gentle enough to roll over in a wheelchair is need be. There are also flexible "pop-up" curbs that can be glued to the tile at the threshold. They stick up a couple of inches, and being made out of flexible material they can be rolled right over. I'm not sure of their durability. Anyhow Joe, more than you asked for. And you thought YOUR post was long. lol Oh, and for grab bars, etc, look at a website called "grab bar specialists."

Not an expert, but I do enjoy working with tile. Are you planning to cut all those down from larger sizes? If so, I'd strongly reccomend using a solid body porcelain or non-polished stone so the cut edges don't look unfinished as they do when you cut a glazed tile or polished stone. Fun that you cut your sizes out-- I always just draw on graph paper! But if you are lucky enough to be able to buy the actual sizes you need, the install itself won't be too tough. Remember that you can pull off a tile that's been up for only a little while, but your pattern doesn't look like it would be especially difficult. The nice thing with a broken pattern like this is that the grout lines are nice and short-- long lines show imperfections much worse than short ones.