Yeah, you could paint it, although it would be kind of stupid because it costs about 4x more than the pine plank beadboard that both Lowes and Home Depot have right on the shelf. Home Depot's (made by PGM) also comes in a preprimed version called Cape Cod Plank. Like Scottmel's, it comes in 8' lengths that you can just cut down to the size you want, and also in a "wainscot" height that's either 32" or 36" high, I can't remember. I think the trim pieces that the manufacturer (of what is sold at Lowes and HD) makes to go with it are chintzy looking but it's not at all difficult to get the moldings in another way. I ordered the House of Fara cap rail and baseboard trim (the bulk of the baseboard is just a plain 1x6 board!) from House of Fara through Home Depot - they had the "nameless wood" one in stock but I needed the oak. It was delivered to my house within a week.

Thanks so much for your responses. I too like the look of tile instead of beadboard, but this is a guest bath and we're trying to keep costs down. We can't scrap the beadboard idea entirely because the walls are not in good enough condition to just paint - they need to be covered. I will check out the Schluter products today. The other idea I discussed last night with the contractor is to run a wood trim corner piece down that edge and have the tile come up next to it (hopefully flush). The corner piece would also hide the beadboard edge on the other side. The tub/shower is set back about 7 or 8 inches from this corner, so I don't think we'll have trouble with water contacting the wood. On the back wall, we'll use a flat strip of wood trim from floor to ceiling to achieve the same effect. I'll post finished pics if we ever get to that point!

I ordered my bathroom beadboard via Nantucket Beadboard (www.beadboard.com) and LOVE it...It wasn't the cheapest option I had but I wanted it to hold up to moisture. My neighbors bath paint started peeling and separating after just a couple of years. You can go with strip products or sheet products. I went with strip products. And if you do go with sheet product, make sure it is thick enough and has a way to butt against each other and overlap.....so you don't get the awful joints. Especially awful on a light painted finish. Here's the link and a photo of my bathroom. For the whole room, I think it was around $300-$400...but definitely worth the quality material! Kompy Here is a link that might be useful: Nantucket Beadboard

I love the "country" look of using beadboard as a backsplash, and have been researching it online for a while. I just am not sure which product would be best to use, and if it would be okay to use it behind the stove. My stove is an electric slide-in type- with the control panel on the back. There is only 16 inches between the top of that panel and the bottom of my range hood, so I really think that beadboard would be okay...? My main concern with using wood or mdf beadboard is the shrinking/expanding that I have read about-- causing cracks in the seams where the individual panels meet, but is that *really* an issue indoors, where the temperatures don't have extreme changes... ? One other worry for me is behind the sink, which does get occasional water splashes... I have been looking at the PVC beadboard-- looks like it would be very easy to install, but again, I'm not sure about the contraction/expansion issue.... and I am not sure if it will look too "plastic-y"... Any thoughts on these issues from anyone?