I have one of the smaller 6k machines. For me how many clothes in a load depends on what color they are, what they are made of, and if I am washing items that fade and bleed. I did a few loads today. Two of them consisted of: White cotton under wear and socks: 13 T shirts 10 briefs 10 pairs of socks. 7 Handkerchiefs Temperature 140F Detergent amount 1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons. cycle length 1 hour 37 minutes Dark blue Cottons: 7 pairs of athletic socks 2 sets of flannel PJ's 6 athletic T shirts 1 hooded sweat shirt 1 under wear brief Temperature 105F Detergent amount 2 teaspoons Cycle length 49 minutes. The other loads were a queen comforter and blankets. I have additional loads sorted to do some time this week They are: bright green cottons, dark green cottons, brown cottons, black cotton polo type shirts, tan cottons, grey cottons, medium blue Polartec fleece, black Lycra. None of these loads will completely fill the machine but I sort by fabric type and within type by color which means that I don't wash cotton and poly or spandex together because they don't dry at the same rate and cannot withstand the same water temperatures. I also keep dark blues separated from dark greens and reds and browns. So I basically keep all colors separated. The one exception is that I will wash bright yellow and green together. If I have polo shirts they will go into loads by themselves separated by color, which prevents a lot of wrinkling and no - I don't iron anything. Towels are washed together by color with no other type of garment. Polyester and synthetic materials go together and are not mixed with cottons. I didn't use to be this finicky about sorting until I had my washer fixed to drain into the laundry sink. Once I saw the amount of color transfer taking place in the wash water being pumped out I became very strict about color separation. These are the same type of loads I did when I had my TL so the amount of loads per week didn't increase or decrease when I switched to a FL. I also think the amount of clothes in a load will depend on how heavy and bulky the items are. I know instructions say to wash a mixed load. I don't think I have ever done this. I wash small items with large but try not to mix fabric types and extreme weight variations. I really don't have anything tangled.

Please do not compare a bedroom dresser's hardware to kitchen cabinet hardware...there's no comparison...kitchen hardware is going to be much better. Kitchen drawers will have better quality glides, they will be more stable, they will be able to handle much more weight, etc. I use one hand to open my kitchen drawers all the time...even the ones w/two pulls...there have been no adverse affects on the drawer hardware. I have Blumotion...a very good line of quality hardware. The real issue is what is the quality of your drawer glides? Lower quality will most likely have problems, but high quality will not. Muspic...ask your cabinet maker what manufacturer/brand of drawer glides s/he uses...

Great ideas, thanks everyone. I haven't installed anything, just penciled in the spots until I got to that one problem door. I will think about installing it lower for now, but that touch latch idea is priceless. I'd save about $150 of money with those latches as opposed to knobs. Not as aesthetically pleasing, but I bet buyers will go, "How cool is that?" when they open the doors. I wonder if you could do that with drawers and lazy susans...

I'm planning to use a similar size pull (not bin though) and I plan to use two per drawer on my 36 inch drawer stacks. The next biggest drawer in my space with be 30 inches wide and I plan to use just one on it, partly because it will be a shallow drawer underneath a speed oven in a not very prominent place in my kitchen. I think at some point I searched and found previous threads on this topic with pictures which really helped me decide.