How hard is it to retrofit drawers into existing cab box?
northcarolina
12 years ago
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laxsupermom
12 years agobob_cville
12 years agoRelated Discussions
help modifying existing oven cab for warmer
Comments (14)Who designed that cabinet? Why weren't the upper and lower cabinets built with doors to fit the size to begin with? Since you aren't going to be doing the work yourself, I'd just call and get estimates on rebuilding the cabinet. If you don't want to consider a new cabinet, I assume it's because you don't want the cabinet pulled out? Someone will have to pull the oven out to get to the inside of the cabinet, and then depending on how well the cabinet was built, they might have to do all the following: Take out/cut out the plywood (I assume it's plywood) on the face frame of the cabinet between the current oven and the lower cabinet opening. It will be glued, possibly have biscuits set in, and nailed with a brad nailer and those nails are extremely difficult if not impossible to pull out. They will probably have to be nipped off and filed down. All that will probably cause some splintering of the stiles and rails. Then, to get to the inside of the carcass to install the warmer and the drawer you want, they will have to take out the plywood separating the bottom cabinet from the oven cavity. It will probably be set into a rabbet, glued, and nailed, so will have to be sawed into pieces and then pried out. Then everything else is done while either hanging inside the upper opening or wedged into the bottom opening. Next, they will have to install new rails for the drawer and the warmer and they will have to install drawer guides, and possibly cleats for them on the sides of the carcass, as well as supports for the warmer. Holes will have to be drilled for the electrical, but that's the easy part. Then an electrician will do his/her part. They will have to replace the plywood that was taken out under the oven, only it needs to be replaced below the warmer now so a support will have to be built for it since it can't be rabbeted in. Then, drawer and drawer fronts made and you're good to go. If you do all that, you might consider putting a false drawer front above the top oven, or even creating a space there to store trays or long boxes of aluminum foil, and hinge the drawer front from the top to make it easier to see what's inside. I've only hit the highlights, but if I or my dh were doing this in our own kitchen, words would be said that are seldom said. If you will let someone pull out the cabinet and work from the back, it will be soooo much easier, and therefore cheaper for you....See MorePlywood or particle board boxes on your kitchen cabs?
Comments (36)>>Not sure how you can have adjustable shelves in particle board- (is that a possibility?) Not only do I have 19 yr old particleboard kitchen cabs in perfect shape (Kraftmaid frameless Euro6 line), I've owned painted particleboard bookcases for over 30 years, lugging them around from place to place. And yes, the KM cabs are completely adjustable with pins, no problem. There IS a difference in quality to look for. 3/4" is not as good as 1" (you can see some of the thinner particleboard cubes below show some bowing, although at 19 yrs in the same configuration they have yet to fall apart). And high-density is a lot better than low-density. Here's a photo of a mix of 3/4" and 1" bookcases and cubes. Notice the 2-shelf unit on the bottom LH, of 1" board? One of the oldest ones I have, it has been loaded with those extraordinarily heavy art and coffeetable books for thirty years. If you stacked up all the books that are on one shelf there, it's 30" high and I'll bet no person here would be able to lift them all at once. BTW, ignore the tilt in some of the vertical stacked cubes - we used L-brackets to bolt each individual piece to the wall for earthquake proofing, so it tilted some of the cubes forward as we worked upwards. Also, these are only half of the bookcases; we have 8 full-height teak-veneered particleboard bookcases in other rooms, also heavily loaded, and all over 20 yrs old. I can assure you, having moved these books and bookcases around several intracity relocations, each one of those bookshelves is holding much more weight than is being held on my fully-loaded, 75-lb capacity rollout KM pantry shelves in the kitchen. Lousy quality particleboard will bend under the weight of a few folded sweaters - I can attest to that, I've owned some of it (and had to throw it out). OTOH, lousy quality plywood is just as bad. We also own the "solid wood" Home Depot Masterbath bathroom cabs - what crappy plywood it is! 1/2" ply so flimsy, I was surprised it managed to support the weight of the double sink countertop without crashing to the floor. You'd better believe I'd never stand on the Masterbath cabs - but I have stood on the KM cabs without any problems, and at 230 lbs. I'm not exactly lightweight. The point made about the quality of interior veneers is an excellent one, and far too often overlooked. The interior veneer used by KM in 1989 is far superior to what they use now. I put dishes away wet and even had a six-month slow leak in our sink cab that did no damage outside of a quarter-sized bubble raised in the veneer, no substrate damage. There is an additional cost to using particleboard that should be noted - you should never go over 30" wide without a - I don't know the right woodworking term - front vertical support slat? - to help prevent the shelves from bowing. Plywood can go 36-48" in width, depending upon board thickness and weight capacity desired. Therefore, you should use more, slightly narrow cabs in particleboard, than you can use in plywood. That is the ONLY advantage of plywood, IMHO, coming from someone who has put frameless particleboard boxes through a lot more heavy use than most people ever manage. Being able to use fewer, larger cabs can sometimes save enough $$ to be worth the upgrade cost, for those who prefer plywood anyway. Plywood cabs are lighter and easier to DIY. Installers hate particleboard because it takes 2-3 people to do the install and it's a lot more heavy work. But either material IF of good quality, will be able to last so long you'll get tired of it before you'll see it disintegrate....See MoreCan I add toe kick drawers to cabs in a finished kitchen
Comments (2)Great info! I see how the drawers are mounted. I just create new sides, mount the drawers to the new sides, and slide the whole thing into place. Of Course. Easy to understand when you show me how. Thanks...See MoreInstalling new drawer glides in existing drawers
Comments (3)With the right tools (like say a RightAngle screw-driver, etc), good instructions, and lotsa patience/time, it should be doable... You should be able to practice one set first. Then the rest will be easy to do. Apart from books, DVDs, etc., what may also help is to get a cabinet from say some place like IKEA, see how it all goes together, and replicate the process. Return the cab after that. The only gotcha that I can think of, is if you are working with particle board boxes/drawers - if a mistake is made wrt holes drilled, it could a little painful to rectify the mistake. It is little more invloved to "fill" with wood-fillers (pastes made from quick drying water-soluble powders) and then relocate the holes/screws. Best, /venkat...See Morenorthcarolina
12 years agoannac54
12 years agorikerk
12 years agonorthcarolina
12 years agoRRM1
12 years agolaxsupermom
12 years agolaxsupermom
12 years agonorthcarolina
12 years agobob_cville
12 years agonorthcarolina
12 years agocheri127
12 years agobob_cville
12 years agonorthcarolina
12 years agoannac54
12 years agoSallie Nicholas
8 years ago
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